Saturday 1 February 2025
Today was an exciting day. I would be travelling north to Grootkolk where I would be spending the next two nights. The morning started with a bang when I found some lions at Cubitje Quap. Four lionesses were lying next to the road.
I just loved how they looked in the first rays of the sun.
They seemed sleepy, but when a Blue Wildebeest came strolling down the riverbed, they became alert in seconds.
That is when I spotted the 5th lioness when she sat up where she lay hidden. I sat with them for a while before I continued my drive.
Just before Kwang there were two more lions. One was hidden, but the 2nd was lying right next to the road. She was gorgeous but sleepy, and I did not stay very long.
My 3rd lion sighting of the morning happened between Kwang and Bedinkt. I spotted an OSV and stopped to see what they were looking at. It was a lioness walking in the distance.
While I was photographing her something dashed out in front of my camera. I managed a few photos. It was another AWC! I was so lucky to see it in that moment!
Another exciting moment between Kwang and Bedinkt was when I saw a few Ludwig’s Bustards. As I scanned the area I counted 6 birds. They were far away, but it was still a great sighting.
I stopped at the Lijersdraai waterhole for a few minutes. There were a pair of Lappet-vultures on the ground.
A Secretary Bird strolled up for a drink.
Just before I reached Kannagaus a mongoose dashed across the road. He joined a 2nd one and I saw they were eating something. It looked as if it was an adult and a youngster. It was the first time I’ve seen a Slender mongoose that was that red. They were deep under the bush, and it wasn’t easy to see them, but they were really cute.
I arrived at Grootkolk a little early and could not check in immediately. I was not in the mood to drive more at that moment, and I went to the communal area for a snack and something to drink. I chatted to the people in the next unit, and they mentioned a leopard near Kannagaus. Since I had time before I could check in, I decided to go and see if I could find it. Even though I found the correct tree, I did not find the leopard. I did however see six Secretary Birds at the waterhole.
Later that afternoon I headed in that direction again, and so did the lady who told me about it. We decided to look for it together. It was not under the tree where she had seen it earlier, but as I scanned the riverbed, I spotted it on the very far side of the riverbed.
It got up from where it was in stalk mode in the sun and went to lie down in the shade. It would re-position every few minutes.
Then it became very alert. It started staking something.
I wondered what it was and then I saw a little head pop out of a burrow in the ground. Nooooo!! The Leopard was stalking a Bat-eared Fox! Nothing had happened by the time I had to leave, and I was relieved. I would love to see a leopard hunt, but not when it hunted one of the cutest creatures in the Park!
There was a water bowl at my unit at Grootkolk, and after I unpacked, I filled it. Keeping it full was a fulltime job! There were so many Red-headed Finches and all of them wanted to drink. They were joined by Starlings, Drongos and Squeaky Toys. I also noticed a White-Throated Canary coming for a drink.
The little birds provided endless entertainment during the mid-day hours when I relaxed on the patio, and I also got some “exercise” by having to get up every few minutes to refill the water!
The sunset at Grootkolk that evening was magical.
Sunday 2 February 2025
My plan was to leave as soon as I could get my permit at 06h00 and drive to Union’s End. But you know what they say about the best laid plans. My drive was delayed by about two hours when a few lions appeared at the water hole just before 06h00. Two lionesses and three cubs came for a drink. They then proceeded to walk right past my chalet.
It looked as if they were heading to the camp entrance road, and as soon as they were a safe distance away, I jumped in my car, got my permit and went looking for them. I did not have to go far. I found them about 400m from camp where they had stolen a springbok kill.
Everyone suspected a Cheetah may have been the killer, but when I approached, I only saw 6 Black-backed Jackals scatter. My early drive to Union’s End was put on hold as there was no way that I was going to leave this wonderful sighting.
One lioness and the three cubs fed until there was very little meat left.
The other lioness showed no interest and sat to one side. After enjoying these lions for about two hours I eventually left for Unions End.
I had seen a lot fewer Black-backed Jackals during this trip than in 2023. It was therefore quite nice when I did see them, especially when they were close to the road like this one.
Another interesting sighting was that of a few vultures. I saw these two Lappet-faced Vultures first. Then I saw another one as well as a White-backed Vulture lying close together facing each other. It was quite interesting to see them together like that.
If you read literature it states that Union’s End is about 3 hours from Nossob. I am not sure in what world that is possible. Visiting Union’s End was something I really wanted to do, and that was one of the main reasons for booking the two nights at Grootkolk. When I got there, it really felt as if I was at the End of the World. I have never felt as isolated as I did that morning when I looked across the flat, empty, dry riverbed in this remote corner of this beautiful country of ours.
The only sound was that of the wind. And the only other sign of life was a lone Blue Wildebeest in the distance. The sun was baking down on the earth, but I stood leaning against my car and absorbed the silence and solitude and isolation of this remote spot. Later I sat at a table at the picnic area. I thought of the saying “sometimes I sits and I thinks and sometimes I just sits”. I sat there for almost an hour just doing the latter while staring at the landscape.
It was wonderful to have that quiet time in such peaceful surroundings. And then, to my utter surprise, another vehicle arrived! I was a little dismayed, but it was a lovely couple who were was staying at Polentswa, and they stopped to chat for a while. When I left I felt so calm and relaxed. Visiting Union’s End had been a dream, and now it had come true.
I also spent some time at the Union’s End Waterhole. There were lots of Blue Wildebeest and Gemsbok.
A Lanner Falcon came swooping over my car and took out a little bird which it then proceeded to eat in a tree nearby.
Other birds included Red-faced Mousebirds, Namaqua Sandgrouse and a Pale Chanting Goshawk.
As I was about to leave, another thirsty creature arrived.
I watched it quench its thirst and when it wandered off, I took my leave as well.
Before I went back to camp, I decided to first drive to Kannagaus. The couple that I ran into at Union’s End mentioned that they saw a warthog, and I was excited when I got a distant visual of one. During my afternoon drive I would see it again. It had a very strange claw.
And the next day I saw three warthogs when I was driving back to Nossob.
Other sightings at and near Kannagaus included this PCG.
I also enjoyed these baby Blue Wildebeest and Red hartebeest.
During my drives I would often see Agamas and Lizards sprint across the road. But they would disappear into the bushes very quickly. As I was driving back from Union’s End a Bushveld Lizard ran across the road but then kindly posed for a few pictures.
From Kannagaus I drove to the leopard spot even though I knew it would no longer be there. As I made a U-turn, I noticed a little creature right next to my car. A Ground Agama was basking on top of a bush. So cute!
Grootkolk is a fantastic camp. There are only four units, and they all face the waterhole. I was in unit 4, the furthest from the waterhole, but it still had a great view. Animals visited the waterhole constantly and included Red Hartebeest, Blue Wildebeest, Gemsbok, Springbok and Jackals.
There were the ever-present Lanner Falcons as well as a Pale Chanting Goshawk and a Black-chested Snake Eagle. Two Secretary Birds also came for a drink.
It was one of the great sightings during my stay.
At night I spotted Barn Owls and Rufous-cheeked Nightjars at the waterhole. And on the morning of my birthday a Verreaux’s Eagle-owl was hunting moths under the light at the waterhole. This was a special sighting as I missed out on this bird during my first trip and also had not seen one in Kruger for a while.
Just before the end of my afternoon drive, I decided to see if anything was happening at Geinab. My new neighbours from Grootkolk were there and they were looking at this gorgeous girl.
She went for a drink, and when she moved to lie behind a log,
I went back to camp. When I arrived, I saw that the lionesses and cubs from the morning had come back to the waterhole for a drink. The adults were out of sight in front of the other units, but I had visuals of the cubs at the waterhole.
The light was fading fast, but it was still lovely to view them.
The sunset was once again something special.
Monday 3 February 2025
Monday 3 February 2025 was my birthday. I would be leaving Grootkolk and driving back to Nossob where I would be camping for 3 nights. I was up early as I wanted to leave as soon as I was able to get my permit. I watched the Verreaux’s Eagle Owl, and as I continued to get ready, I heard a lion roar. I rushed outside. It was just getting light, and I could just make out the shape of a lion on the other side of the waterhole. Then he got up and went for a drink. It was incredible to see him on one side of the waterhole and the Verreaux’s Eagle Owl on the other side. It was still too dark for photos, and I really hoped he would hang around until the light improved. He did. Not only that, he walked right to my unit, roaring all the way.
The fences around the units are not very high, and he was not far from my unit. To be so close to a large male lion and hear him roar like that gave me chills and goosebumps and made me jump up and down with excitement. He then lay down next to my unit. The light was a little better and I could take some photos.
He went for another drink and walked past my unit again, this time without stopping.
What an incredible birthday gift!
After that incredible start to my birthday, I did not think the day could get any better. When I left Grootkolk I first turned left at the main road to see if I could see the lion again. I did not see him, and I headed to Nossob. A few minutes after I passed the Grootkolk turn off I realised I still had my key. I quickly turned around to take it back. When I got there my neighbours called me – a Cheetah was drinking at the waterhole.
My annoyance at forgetting my key quickly evaporated.
What an unexpected and amazing birthday present!!