9 February 2025
Today was camp moving day again – for the last time. I would be driving to Twee Rivieren where I would be camping for the last three nights of my trip. I was not far from Mata Mata when I heard Grey Hornbills calling. It was still very dark, but I found them and the cause for their alarm. A Verreaux’s Eagle Owl was perched in a tree next to the road.
Their calls became more anxious, and the Owl took off, the Hornbills in hot pursuit. The sunrise was once again spectacular. I stopped and just enjoyed it for a few minutes.
Just after Craig Lockhart I noticed very large lion tracks on the road. They were going in the same direction as I was driving. At the Dalkeith turn off the tracks continued straight, but I decided to take the loop to the waterhole. It was the best decision. As I approached, I saw a golden cat drinking water.
The light was perfect and made this sleek cat look even more beautiful, especially her eyes.
The water was still and the reflection was perfect. She looked up every now and then at something that piqued her interest. After a while she walked in that direction, but she was in no hurry.
She lay down in the shade. I still had a long drive ahead, so I left her. At the end of the loop I found a large herd of springbok, probably what she was looking at.
I had just navigated the large puddle at the 14th Borehole turnoff when I noticed something out of the corner of my eye. In 2023 I discovered a new favourite thing – any animal on a red dune. And here was the perfect animal on a beautiful red dune.
The lioness looked gorgeous where she was lying on the red sand. The sighting only lasted a few minutes, but it was perfect.
It did not look like anything serious, but every time I see Giraffes hit each other with their necks like that I cannot help but flinch. I was lucky to see a few Brown Snake Eagles during the trip. Their yellow eyes are so pretty. This one stared at me with some intensity.
A little while later another vehicle stopped to tell me about a Cape Fox Den. I found them easily.
They are just the cutest animals, and I could not believe how lucky I was to have found a 2nd den during this trip.
They are just so fluffy. I love the little tooth sticking out.
I was surprised at how far east I found the last Giraffes of this trip. I found a few between Montrose and Batuluma and then another just after Kamfersboom.
Other noteworthy sightings between Kamqua and Twee Rivieren included this thirsty little Springbokkie.
The baby trend continued when two baby Ground Squirrels appeared from their burrow.
They were the smallest Ground Squirrels I have ever seen, and I couldn’t help but go “Aaawwww”. Just before I reached the end of the Auob Road I finally had a decent sighting of a Northern Black Korhaan and just before Confluence I found a lovely family of Ostriches.
I set up camp at Twee Rivieren and was relieved that my tent seemed ok after my makeshift repairs at Mata Mata. After a LONG cooldown in the pool, I decided to drive to Kij Kij for my afternoon drive. I found many, many Kori Bustards in the Rooiputs area, and I would find them every day.
There was also a pair of Secretary birds (I would also see them again) and they looked magnificent against the backdrop of the green grass.
I saw my 2nd Cheetah of the day just before Kij Kij. It had killed a Springbok earlier in the day.
From the size of that tummy it seemed that the Cheetah had eaten most of it.
She picked up the remains and moved a few meters away where she continued to feed, her back turned to the road and her face in the grass.
On the way back to camp I saw a Leopard Tortoise crossing the road.
Just before Confluence a Kori Bustard was having a dust bath.
Once again the Park delivered some of the most incredible sightings during the course of the day.
10 February 2025
I would see the Cape Fox pups at the location I noted down on my first morning every morning for the rest of my trip. I did not mind, because seriously, who can resist such cute fluffy animals? I would spend a few minutes with them every morning, just enjoying the fact that I can view them.
This morning I counted 11 Kori Bustards near Rooiputs, and I even saw one fly (my second Kori in flight sighting after the first near Nossob). Unfortunately, it flew away from me and I only got a photo of its back when it landed.
It was quiet at Kij Kij and I decided to drive the Short Dune Road as far as the Tierkop Waterhole. It is a very scenic road.
There were only a few sightings. I saw a few Burchell’s Sandgrouse and two Steenbokkies. Back at Kij Kij I drove to the little pan just north of the waterhole as that was where all the action seemed to be. I tried to photograph the Sandgrouse as they came to the water, but without much success. Of the many photos I took I only really had a few useable photos!
I was surprised to see a Black-headed Heron at the pan, the only one I saw during the trip. I beautiful Black-winged Kite sat in a nearby tree constantly wagging its tail up and down. I’ve never seen a Black-winged Kite do this before. A Hamerkop arrived, also a surprise sighting.
The rest of the road was quiet, or so I thought. I got a lesson on “how to miss a Cheetah” not far from the road. It seemed I had missed it on my way to Melkvlei, and if you look at this photo you can see how that could have happened.
Fortunately, she got up to change position and other people spotted her. She lifted her head every now and then to look at Springbokkies that were not far away, but she never seemed very interested.
The cheetah was not far from where I saw the Cheetah the previous day and was probably the same animal. I sat with her in the scorching heat for a long time, but she never got up, so eventually I continued to camp.
On the way back from my morning drive I saw two flat male lions at Leeudril. I knew that would be the destination for my afternoon drive.
When I reached Leeudril later that the lions were still flat, and I decided to see if anything was happening at Rooiputs. Just before I reached Rooiputs someone told me about a leopard a few kms further. When I arrived at the spot it was chaos. The leopard was lying next to a bush about 3m from the road. Two vehicles had parked right next to it in such a way that they basically blocked the view for everyone. A few other vehicles were trying to get vies, and between then they had parked so badly that the road was completely blocked. No-one was moving. An elderly couple who had been waiting just shook their heads and turned around. I reversed to the vehicle behind me who had followed me and told him I am not sure if it would be worth waiting for a gap. He then drove to the traffic jam. I am not sure what he said, but most people’s sanity (sadly not all of them) returned and they re-positioned to make the sighting and the road more accessible. He then waved me forward. I got a handful of record shots and high-tailed it out of there.
I did not have the energy for this. It was the kind of behaviour I’ve only experienced in Kruger, and did not expect this from KTP visitors.
Back at Leeudril the lions started to show some sign of life. There was lots of yawning and then one male got up and walked to another bush where he flopped down.
By now there were many cars, but the people at this sighting were much better behaved, and I think most people had good views for the most part. One male walked past the waterhole, and the other came for a quick sip, and I found myself in the right spot.
When he looked into the camera as he approached, I got goosebumps.
I just kept my finger on the shutter button. He took about two sips of water before walking away, but it was perfect.
I left as he walked away as gate closing was fast approaching, but I drove back to Twee Rivieren with a HUGE smile on my face.
General sightings
Before I get to the last day of my trip, a few photos of the regularly seen animals in the Park. I obviously saw many Gemsbok and Springbok every day. They are definitely some of the prettiest antelope.
I also saw many Red Hartebeest. They may not be the prettiest animals, but they do look lovely in the sunlight and the babies have a sweetness about them.
I saw so few Black-backed Jackals, and when I did, it was actually a real treat.
One of the things I love about the area along the Auob River is the Giraffes. I was so fortunate to see many of these wonderful animals.
There were many cute baby Blue Wildebeest.
The birds during this trip were incredible. There were hundreds of Grey-backed Sparrow-larks and Lark-like Buntings all over the Park.
This Flycatcher looked pretty in the sunlight.
I saw surprisingly few Bateleurs.
I thought the way this Cardinal Woodpecker peeked at me over the branch.
Pale Chanting Goshawks are verry attractive raptors.
Even though I saw so many Kori Bustards, I couldn’t get enough of them.
After the first sighting of Ludwig’s Bustards on the way to Grootkolk I saw them a few more times.
These Ring-necked Doves at Rooikop had the prettiest reflections.
The Camel Thorn Trees are synonymous with the Park. Add a few animals to the picture and it is perfect.
I love the scenery along the dunes. And the views along the riverbeds are equally breathtaking.
there were butterflies all over the Park,nd featured in almost every sighting.
11 February 2025
It was my last full day. As always, I could not drive past the Cape Foxes without stopping. Once again, I lingered for some time. They are way to irresistible to ignore.
As I approached Kij Kij I saw a lioness walking to the pan near the waterhole. I saw the rest of the pride under a bush on a dune. She must have had a bit of an unhappy constitution because she spent a long time eating grass.
Then she came for a drink. The morning light was perfect, and it was a beautiful scene.
Then she lifted her head and looked straight at me. OMW! Those eyes! Her eyes were so beautiful, I got goosebumps.
After her thirst was quenched, she walked back to the pride. I hoped to see them again that afternoon.
I continued to Melkvlei. I saw an immature Martial Eagle and just a little further this gorgeous adult. The wind lifted the feathers on his head to create a little crest, giving him a slightly grumpy look.
It seems my thing was to miss sleepy cats. Is I drove back to camp I saw a few cars and they were looking at a leopard asleep under a bush. He woke up for a bit. Based on the location it was probably the same leopard as the day before.
The wind blew up some dust, creating an interesting effect.
After a while he got up and moved deeper into the bush and out of sight.
At Leeudril I saw the cutest family.
These were some of the smallest ostriches I had seen in a long time and they were super cute.
It was adorable how they stood in mom’s shadow.
Those bare bums melted my heart!
When I arrived at Kij Kij later that afternoon I did not have to ask the people in the only other vehicle if they knew where the lions had moved to. It was pretty obvious.
One lioness was lying right next to the road and the rest of the pride was lying in the grass next to the water.
When the big male lifted his head I realised that it was the same pride of lions that I saw in this exact spot on my first morning.
They were very lazy.
Then it started spitting with rain. I have never seen lions get up that quickly!
From a distance the young male’s eye looked really terrible and I thought he may have lost his eye. But on closer inspection the eye seemed fine and it was just the skin under the eye that was torn.
The nervous jump he gave when he walked past daddy made be suspect I knew where the injury came from. The young male and two of the lionesses came to shelter from the rain under a tree next to my car.
The other lionesses also got up but decided that the rain was not so bad and stayed in the grass for a cuddle.
After a while there were many stretches before they walked to the near side of the pan and out of sight. The big male was not bothered and all and just lay in the grass yawning and grooming. I did get a bit of affection.
After a while he followed them out of sight. I drove to the other end of the pan where the one lioness was lying. It wasn’t the one with the yellow eyes from the morning, but she was just as pretty.
I left Kij Kij early enough to allow for a slow, relaxed drive back to camp. It was the last afternoon drive back to camp and I just wanted to savour every second without having to rush. I just love this Squeaky Toy nest.
Just before Confluence there was a herd of Springbok with some youngsters that looked really lovely in the rays of the afternoon sun.
Back at camp I drove straight to the hide. I was just in time for the last minutes of the sunset. As was the case on my very first afternoon in Twee Rivieren back in 2023, the scene floored me.
The moon was rising in the east creating one of those spectacular and perfect scenes.
Later that night I sat in front of my tent and stared at the almost full moon.
There was lightning to the north. I had one morning drive left. I reflected on the past two weeks. The trip had been incredible, better than I ever could have imagined.
12 February 2025
I stopped at the Cape Fox Den one last time. I was so fortunate to have found two den sites during the trip and really enjoyed seeing these cute animals.
I spotted a PCG that was sitting beautifully in the morning light. I was so lucky to get a couple of take-off pics.
I sighed a happy sigh when I approached Kij Kij. I could not have asked for a better send off. There were four of my second favourite mammals at the waterhole.
They started walking towards the pan but then changed their minds and came back to the waterhole.
They had a drink and then headed into the dunes towards Short Dune Road.
I went to the pan to see what had caught their interest for a moment but could not find anything unusual. I drove back to camp as content as could be.
Between Leeudril and Confluence I found another Leopard Tortoise.
A herd of Blue Wildebeest was heading to Confluence, but the walk was too long for this little one and mom had to stop so it could have a quick drink.
There were a few Gemsbok at the waterhole, including a youngster.
The Blue Wildebeest arrived. Some of the younger ones decided that the water would tase better if they stood in it while drinking.
I packed my camp site very quickly. With tyres inflated, I was on my way. And just like that my trip had come to an end. Fourteen unforgettable nights in the most mesmerizing Park. I fell hopelessly in love with KTP on my first visit, and this epic trip cemented my feelings. I spoke to my mom when I still had four nights left and told her I was already thinking about when I could come back. The red sand is truly part of me now.
The End