Crocodile Bridge Rest Camp
I have not stayed in Crocodile Bridge Rest Camp since 2014 and decided that it was time to visit this camp again. I would be camping at Crocodile Bridge for 3 nights and then move on to Skukuza (my home away from home) for 4 nights.
When I arrived at the Malalane gate it was a sweltering 40 degrees. I took the most direct route to Crocodile Bridge. It is not my favourite road, as it has been very quiet on previous occasions. Today was no different, but I did see the occasional animal – Impala, Nyala, Kudu, Elephant and various birds.
I did not immediately set up camp when I arrived at CB. I checked with people camping on the camp site with the most shade, and they indicated that they would be leaving the next day, I then “squatted” on the edge of their camp site, resulting in me having this shade spot for the remainder of my stay. I ate ice-cream on the shady lawn and enjoyed the friendly Bushbuck that were relaxing on the cool grass.
The delightful Bushbabies were one of the main reasons I decided to stay at CB. All reports and enquiries indicated that they typically come out about 20-30 minutes before sunset. I arrived at the spot with time to spare and settled in to wait. During the latter part of the afternoon, it had cooled down some and had become quite cloudy. I waited and waited, but they only came out about 20 minutes after sunset. By then the light had deteriorated quite a bit and I could get no photos and only a terrible video. There were 3 of them, and I did have wonderful views of their little heads peeking out and then of them jumping into the trees. The next day was the same – heavily overcast and once again the one only came out long after sunset. The video was not as dark, but still terrible.
Photographic evidence of these cute little guys was not what I wanted, but seeing these little creatures was wonderful none the less.
While waiting for the bush babies and walking about camp, I listed several birds – Paradise Fly-catchers, Marico Sunbirds, a pair of Kurrichane Thrushes, Red-billed Firefinces, Drongos, Saddle-billed Storks in the riverbed, Thick-knees and quite a few White-bellied Sunbirds. The White-browed Robin-Chat was present throughout my stay. I also saw a pretty little Ashy Flycatcher.
I came across this warthog. It seems they kept on sneaking into camp, and the staff spent quite a bit of time chasing them out again!
While walking around the perimeter of the camp, I heard rustling in the bushes just outside the fence. It was a small band of Banded Mongoose.
Despite the hot conditions for most of my trip, most mornings and afternoons were overcast. I did see a few glorious sunrises while staying at CB. What can be better than a Giraffe at sunrise!
I also visited an old favourite while staying in that part of the Park. This iconic tree on the Gomondwane loop is a favourite of many.
As I stopped to take the photo I took a moment to reflect on how many years that dead tree has been like that, and the fact that it would probably still be around generations from now.
My Favourites
When I visit Kruger, I always look forward to spending quality time with elephants. These sentient beings are my favourite mammals, and I am always thrilled to spend time with them. This trip was no different – I saw many elephants, not always close or out in the open, but still enjoyable. I saw this huge elephant with one large tusk. Don’t think it is a known tusker as there are no tuskers with one tusk in the part of the Park where I saw him.
I saw elephants every day on almost every road..
Obviously as I approached Skukuza the sightings increased, and there were always elephants in the Sabie river.
The H12 bridge over the river is one of my favourite places and I saw elephants from there on more than one occasion.
I was driving along when I saw a huge, mud-covered elephant approaching the road. He was massive but relaxed. Even so I drove past him and turned to view him.
He was followed by a 2nd large elephant. 
They did not seem to be bothered by my presence at all, and I just sat back and enjoyed them as they lumbered past.
There is something about an elephant’s eyes that I find completely mesmerising, especially if they have these golden-brown eyes.
They may not be as piercing as the eyes of the big cats, but I always feel that they look onto your soul. I just love it.
Lower Sabie
I drove up to Lower Sabie on both the full days I stayed at CB. It is mandatory to stop on the low water bridge. There were always many birds – large flocks of African Open-bills could be seen from the bridge. There were always little Pied Wagtails bopping about on the bridge while waders like Wood and Common Sandpipers and Black-winged stilts foraged in the shallow areas next to the bridge. The bell-like calls of the Little Swifts provided the perfect soundtrack.
There were a few hippos as always. There was a large hippo out of the water next to the bridge and another was looking at me in that grumpy way only a hippo can.
I saw hippos on a few occasions, but they were always mostly submerged. It was therefore a real treat to find one out of the water on the S28. He took the grumpy look to a completely different level!
I saw a few of these sand rings next to the bridge. I wondered if it could be a nest of some sort?
There were a few Buffaloes as well, and this one found a nice spot on the riverbank.
I did see a few small herds of buffaloes but mostly hidden in the bushes.
A troop of baboons was having a grooming session on the rocks next to the bridge.
I am not a fan of primates, but when I saw this mother and child snuggled together on a raining morning,
I had to take a photo.
A group of Vervet monkeys had a couple of very new babies, and they also huddled together on that raining morning, probably to shelter the little ones. I am not sure what was wrong with the baboon on the low water bridge across the Sand river, but he did not move for a long time.
One morning when I was at Lower Sabie, I saw everyone looking up into the roof above reception. I thought they were all looking at the bats. I was pleasantly surprised to find that everyone was looking at a small-ish African Python.
This snake was not the only reptile I saw. I saw some of the largest Rainbow Skinks I’ve seen for a while at Hippo Pools and Skukuza.
When I drive past the little koppies at the intersection of the H1-1 and the H3 I always scan the rocks, and once again I spotted a Giant Plated Lizard.
I also saw 3 Leopard Tortoises during this trip.
Sunset Dam
Sunset Dam is one of my favourite places in that area of the Park, and I can sit there for long periods (heat allowing) and just watch the comings and goings. I can’t remember when last (if ever) I’ve seen elephants at Sunset Dam, but there were elephants every day.
Some youngsters were rolling in the cool mud. One even had a short nap.
On one occasion there was a huge elephant near the tree. He just stood there without moving. Eventually he moved a couple of steps forward and sprayed some mud, but that was it.
Another elephant was feeding on the other side of the road.
All the usual residents were there – lots of hippos and Crocodiles.
Zebras, Buffalos and Impalas also visited.
As is expected, there were many birds as well. Black-smith Lapwings, Water Thick-knees and White-faced Whistling Ducks were around. An African Spoonbill was foraging close by.
I love the sweeping motion of their bills in the water. I love White-crowned Lapwings. There were also Wood and Common Sandpipers, Three-banded Plovers and a Ruff.
Mlondozi
Mlondozi is my favourite picnic site. I drove there on my 2nd full day at CB. On the way I found a family of 8 Ground Hornbills! They were moving up and down in the tall dry grass. Slowly a few of them made their way closer to the road.
There were 2 younger ones in the group, and one walked onto the road for a bit of preening.
The picnic site was busy as always, but I was able to find a bench where I had something to drink and a bite to eat. There were hundreds of Marabou Storks in the dry dam.
They were joined by Grey Herons. Yellow-billed Storks and Saddle-billed Storks. A little later a herd of elephants sauntered past.
A lady on one of the other benches kept on talking about never seeing so many Grey Herons in one place, and I could not understand what she meant as I could only see about 3. Then a Fish Eagle came swooping in and scattered the birds. About 20 Grey Herons flew up and I realised they were out of sight behind the Euphorbia tree in front of me. I moved over to another bench to get a better view. It seems the Fish Eagle had discovered a clever way of finding food – every now and then when one of the other birds would catch a fish the Fish Eagle would swoop down and steal it from them. One Marabou Stork followed this example chased a Yellow-billed Stork that had caught a fish. The Stork dropped the fish and the Marabou pounced.
The lady and I started chatting and it turned out she is from my hometown. While she went to the ladies I spotted a Collared Pratincole. When she came back, I asked if she had seen it. It turned out it was a lifer for her!
On the way back I saw a Secretary bird.
It was not the first one of the trip – on my first afternoon I saw one at Hippo pools, but it was very far. Then there was anther on the S28.
I would see another on the S112 not far from Renosterkoppies.
Bird Babies
Spring and early summer is time for the birds to breed. I saw a few nests – first was a Magpie Shrike on a nest, then what looked like a Wahlberg’s Eagle on a nest near Lake Panic. There were White-backed Vulture nests everywhere, and one of the young vultures was visible on one of the nests near the H12 turn off. On a rainy morning the baby was less visible!
A Glossy Starling was preparing for the arrival of its own little ones.
While at the Ntandanyahi hide, I noticed a little Wire-tailed Swallow flitting about.
Then it went into the hollow beneath the tree, and I noticed it was building a little nest.
Tinyfants
As much as I love Elephants, I love Tinyfants more. I saw the first little ones on the S28.
A small herd crossed the road and in the middle was this adorable little mud-covered Tinyfant.
A mom and calf were walking near the Vurhami bridge. He walked by lifting his little feet very high. It was so cute to watch.
After I left the Biyamiti Weir I saw a few Elephants in the riverbed. The young elephant was chasing the starling. So cute to watch.
Nambu
Tinyfants are cute, but seeing a majestic Tusker leaves one in awe. I was fortunate to see this handsome guy somewhere on some road during this trip. It was confirmed that his name is Nambu, the Tsonga word for “River”.
It was only the 2nd Tusker I had ever seen, and he was truly impressive.
Night-time Stuff
One of the things I really look forward to when coming to Kruger is my nighttime walks. I went for one walk at CB and 2 at Skukuza. I think the lack of rain and the heat contributed to the fact that I did not find that much on my walks. At Croc Bridge I found a couple of beetles, a sleeping Brown-hooded Kingfisher and a Spotted Genet.
During my first walk in Skukuza I found nothing except a few Tropical House Geckos. On the second walk I found a few Opisthacanthus asper scorpions. I also found a Long-horn Beetle and a Muller’s Platanna.
Outside the lady’s bathroom was a huge Speckled Emperor Moth. It looked fairly plain until I nudged it and saw the beautiful pink colours.
Few experiences compare to the magic of Kruger’s nighttime sounds. I heard lions roar (although far away) during the night and on more than one occasion the laughter and cackling of hyenas woke me from my sleep. Each time I drifted back to sleep with a smile on my face, thrilled to be hearing the night sounds of Kruger.
While sitting at my tent on the last night, I heard the campers next to me say Badger. The next moment the Badger came running around my tent, paused a meter from me and then hid under my car. It soon trotted off with me and some of the other campers in pursuit. I just love the way they walk.
The scorpions I found at Skukuza were not the only scorpions I saw. While on the sunset drive at Croc Bridge the guide stopped the vehicle just before we arrived back at camp and pointed out the Scorpio constellation. It was the first time I have ever been able to see it, and it was so clear. It was one of the highlights of the trip.
General Game
During the first few days things felt quiet. It was hot and dry, and it felt as if wildlife sightings were scarce. However, when I looked at my daily lists, I knew I had seen many animals. The animals were just not always close to the road.
Throughout the trip I saw many Kudus.
I also saw Blue Wildebeest, Waterbuck and Warthogs.
And of course the underrated Impalas.
I saw fewer Zebras than usual. Still one pf the most photographic animals.
In the end I saw 31 mammal species and 11 reptile and amphibian species. And when I add the few smaller creatures and the 163 bird species I saw, it was quite s list! Even when the Park felt quiet, there was a lot to see.
Small Antelope
I also saw many of the little bokkies, as is to be expected when the bush is still dry. I was lucky to see quite a few Duikers. I also saw a couple of Steenbokies.
I always look for Klipspringers when driving past certain rocky outcrops and once again I was lucky to see this pair.
Lake Panic
I had heard that there was very little water at the Lake Panic hide and was not surprised when I was greeted by this view.
But despite the lack of water there was still a lot of activity, especially during my first visit. On the first afternoon I listed 27 bird species and 6 mammal species. The Fish Eagles were very active and caught quite a few fish.
I did see Striated Herons and Squacco Herons.
There were a few Black-smith Lapwings and a beautiful Crested Barbet.
The lack of water meant the birds were not that close, but the mammals made up for that. The mammals included Impala, Waterbuck, Nyalas and Kudus.
The Warthogs were very entertaining. When they weren’t feeding they were having mud baths or using the log as a scratching post.
The 2nd day was quieter, but a little Brown-hooded Kingfisher was hunting around the hide.
He was soon replaced by a few Tawney-flanked Prinias.
On the way to Lake Panic a band of Banded Mongoose crossed the road.
And on the way back I interrupted a Tawny Eagle and a White-backed Vulture who were arguing about who would get the leftovers of a Leopard Tortoise. I waited to see if they would continue their interaction but unfortunately another vehicle arrived and the birds few off. A Yellow-billed Kite then circled with some interest, but then it changed its mind and also flew off.
Golf Club Dinner
I arranged to have dinner at the Golf Club on one of the nights I was staying at Skukuza. I had a lovely view!
I enjoyed watching the birds that were around and spotted some Nyalas and Warthogs on the other side of the Lake. I also saw the Black Heron behind the stump of a dead tree – not a usual bird for Kruger. It was fun to watch the last golfers finish their rounds. It was a very windy evening, and for the first time during the trip I had to put on a jacket. Just as I finished my supper a Spotted Hyena came running past. It gave the diners one brief look before disappearing into the dark.
Special Ones
I had 2 encounters with our Special ones during this trip. The first was quite unexpected as it was somewhere where I did not expect it (although I have seen a few in that same area a few years ago). He caused quite a traffic jam but seemed to be unperturbed by the many cars.
He also had a few unexpected passengers.
I know the distribution of the Yellow-billed Oxpeckers is expanding, but I am always surprised and delighted when I see them that far south.
My second sighting if the Special Ones was of a little family. To see them graze peacefully was a joy to see.
A little later they made their way to the water nearby and the adults had a drink.
It was a very special moment.
Raffies
Giraffes are favourite animals of many people, me included. During this trip it was one of the animals I encountered the most, and often in large groups with at least 8 or more animals together. Many of them were thirsty. I found one drinking next to the N’Waswitshaka bridge, but I could only get a photo straight up its back end, and I thought he may not appreciate me posting such an unflattering photo!
Two others were drinking at De Laporte. The waterhole was very empty, and the smaller one had to be satisfied with a small amount of water next to the waterhole.
The bigger one managed to have a drink.
I don’t often drive the S65, but I decided it was time. When I arrived at the N’Waswitshaka waterhole, there was another large group of Giraffes and 2 were drinking.
I also saw a few young Giraffes.
After a very exciting start to one morning (more about that later!) a few cars stopped for a very new baby Giraffe. Mom and baby were very nervous and skittish for obvious reasons, and I only got one photo. But when he crossed the road behind my car, I could clearly see an umbilical cord that did not look old at all. I checked with the driver of the OSV next to me and he suggested that that baby Giraffe was probably born the day before, or at most 2 days old.
On my way back later, I saw a few Giraffes with some young ones near that spot, but I did not see that youngster. I did see another young one that also still had an umbilical cord attached, although this one seemed older.
It is very seldom that you find a giraffe without a passenger.
I just love the way that Giraffes can just stare at you. I found one that used a tree to scratch his itchy cheek.
Birds
I ended the trip with 163 bird species seen – not too bad for this early in the summer, the weather conditions, and also considering that I did not bird that hard.
While driving along the S28 on my first morning, a Swainson’s Spurfowl and a Black-crowned Tchagra posed nicely. The Tcahgra sat in the open for a while and I was surprised as they are not often out in the open like that.
At the Ntandanyathi hide there were many birds – Black Crakes, Jacanas, Spectacled Weavers, Burchell’s Starlings, African Green Pigeons hiding in the tree and also this Lesser Honey Guide.
A Red-billed Hornbill was looking for a snack somewhere on one of the roads.
On one of my last drives at CB I saw a few Burchell’s Coucals. I berated them and the others I would see later for not doing their jobs as “rainbirds”! They apparently listened as it rained a little towards the end of my trip.
I saw surprisingly few Lilac-breasted Rollers, and those I saw were far away, so when one posed near the road, I had to take the opportunity to photograph it.
When I left CB for Skukuza, my route once again took me along the S28. I caught sight of a Kori Bustard. Had he remained motionless, I may have missed him in the still gloomy conditions. He blended in perfectly with the surrounding landscape.
I saw a few Yellow-throated Longclaws. Every time I see one of these birds I think back to my very first sighting near Pretoriuskop on one of my day trips way back in 2018 when I unsuccessfully twitched the eEV (elusive Egyptian Vulture).
A Striped Skink was having a very bad day. This Yellow-billed Hornbill caught it and then gave it to either a mate or a child who gobbled it down very quickly.
While waiting for the Bushbabies to come out on my first evening at CB I saw a few Trumpeter Hornbills fly past. Seeing these birds is always great. I found another pair at the turnoff to the H12. They seemed to be living there and feeding on the ripening fruit as I saw them a few times in the same area.
I always enjoy seeing the “A380” of the inland birding world. This Goliath Heron was at a small pan on the little detour to the H4-1.
I love White-crowned Lapwings. I always expect to see them at Sunset Dam or Nkuhlu Picnic site. This one was not where I expected it – a few kms from Nkuhlu quite far away from the river.
I don’t see Brubrus on a regular basis. On this trip I only saw the first one on my 2nd last day, and then I saw 2! And then I saw another on my last day on the S112. Three in 2 days – WOW!
I heard a few Woodpeckers but only saw 3. I was looking for the Rufous-naped Lark that was calling when I noticed this Woodpecker.
Two birds constantly eluded me. I heard the Purple-crested Turaco call a few times but did not see one until my last full day. Another bird that eluded me until the last day was the Green-winged Pytilia. Found a small group of males and females.
I also saw my first Red-chested Cuckoo of the summer. And a huge highlight was when I saw the Red-crested Korhaan displaying. I saw him fly up and call twice. It was a little far away but still really exciting to witness.
Transport Dam
Transport Dam has become one of my favourite places. I visited twice during the few days I stayed at Skukuza. It was a little quieter than usual, but there was still a lot to see. Zebras, Waterbuck and Blue Wildebeest came to drink.
I saw the Water Monitor in the exact same spot two days in a row.
The trend of seeing Giraffes drink continued at Transport dam.
I also noticed a few White-breasted Cormorants, not a bird I see often in Kruger. One caught a fairly large fish, but it had no trouble swallowing it and then flying off to sun itself on the opposite side of the dam.
During my 2nd visit a lone elephant came for a drink.
He stood drinking for a long time before wading into the water and have a fairly sedated swim.
Bird Parties
I crashed a few bird parties. On more than one occasion I’d hear some bird calls and when I stopped, I would see many birds in the same bush or area. I stopped for a bird party on the Biyamity Loop. Partygoers included Cape Starlings, Drongos, Bulbuls, Blue and Common Waxbills, Black-backed Puffback, Brown-crowned Tchagra, Chinspot Batis, Marico and While-bellied Sunbirds and a Bennet’s Woodpecker.
A bird party on the H4-1 to Lower Sabie included Brown-headed Parrots, a Sombre Greenbull, Black-backed Puffback, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Chinspot Batis and Marico Sunbirds.
Another party was happening on the S65. There was a Southern Black Tit, Neddicky, Black-headed Oriole, Yellow-throated Bush Sparrow, my first Brubru of the trip and a Golden Breasted Bunting.
I also added a new bird to my Kruger list in the form of a Yellow-bellied Eremomela.
This wasn’t the only new Kruger bird. On my first day I stopped at Hippo Pools and saw a Glossy Ibis, a first sighting in Kruger for me.
Happiness Is …..
My second favourite animal is the Spotted Hyena. I don’t care if people think they are ugly or not, I love them. I remember going on my first sunset drive in 2009 and having Hyenas top of my list to see.
On this trip I saw my first Hyena on the S28. He was walking in front of me and when he stopped to inspect some odours next to the road, I took the opportunity to pass him so I could see him approach.
There was a lot of drooling, and he was in a hurry, so I let him continue on his way after about 50-is photos.
Just after I left CB on the Monday I saw another Hyena that was also in a hurry. I stopped at the entrance to Gasanftombi Dam and watched as it approached. With barely a glance in my direction he walked past me, obviously focused on its destination.
It was the middle of the day the first few times when I drove the short road between the 4-way stop at Skukuza and the T-junction to LS. When I drove it the 2nd time I saw a sleeping Hyena next to the road. I had no idea what it meant that that Hyena was there, but I discovered the reason the next morning. My plan was to drive towards LS on the H4-1 and do the loop back via the H1-2. As I approached the spot where I saw the sleeping Hyena the previous day, there was a traffic jam. I approached slowly and quickly discovered the reason. A sight that still makes me smile weeks later.
Seeing adult hyenas makes me happy. But seeing Hyena Cubs, especially the little black ones, takes my happiness to a completely different level.
I spent about 40 minutes at the den. Luckily most cars just stopped for a few minutes and soon it was only me and a few other cars left. I took many photos and also just enjoyed their antics.
The mom of the 2 smallest cubs did not seem to be bothered by too much.
There were 9 cubs of different ages as well as one or two adults. At one point some of the cubs got the “zoomies” and ran up and down between the bushes like lunatics. They were tremendous fun to watch! Then another adult arrived and the mood changed quite dramatically. The cubs calmed down and most went to lie down between the bushes or at the den entrance. I drove away with the biggest smile on my face.
I wasn’t sure what time in the afternoon the den would be active again, but I was ecstatic when I drove past at about 15h30 and saw the cubs were out.
I parked my cat and settled in for some quality time with some of the cutest animals. Over the course of the next 2 and a bit hours I took too many photos, laughed out loud many times, and felt completely content. Two cubs were suckling, and when they eventually finished, mom proceeded to give each a proper cleaning. The 2 cubs and mom were very attached to each other and I loved seeing the interaction between them.
Other cubs were playing and these 2 also joined. They wrestled with each other or with sticks.
One simply enjoyed laying in a small hollow and just staring around.
Adults arrived and greetings ensued. At one point I counted the 9 cubs and 6 adults.
Anyone who does not think these little cubs are the most adorable creatures cannot be trusted.
I left the den just before 18h00 happy and content and filled with joy.
In the end it was a good thing that I spent so much time at the den because the next day it was completely quiet. When I arrived in the morning there was not an adult Hyena or Hyena cub to be seen. About 200m further I discovered what could be the reason (more later).
Later that morning I turned onto the S114 and found 4 adult Hyenas sleeping next to the road.
I arrived at the den later that afternoon. Two adults were sleeping under a bush, but no other hyenas were visible. I waited for some time, but it remained quiet. I decided to drive to De Laporte and found a small den with 1 adult and 2 older cubs at the turn off to the S114. The adult left a few minutes after I arrived and that was the sign for the 2 cubs to disappear into the den.
On the morning that I left the Park I stopped at the main den. There were a couple of adults and 2 of the older cubs. I just spent a few last minutes with them before leaving.
I saw many wonderful things during the trip, but the hours I was able to spend at the den site were some of the best of the trip.
Cats
My first cat sighting of the trip happened on my first morning. It was on the S28 near the turn off to Duke’s waterhole. I saw movement in the grass and saw 3 Cheetahs. Unfortunately they disappeared into the grass very quickly and I could not get a photo.
Later that day I found a lion at the waterhole near the H5 turnoff. He was lying under a bush quite far away. I stopped there later that afternoon and this time there was some movement as he got up to shift his position.
I had booked a sunset drive for my last night at CB. The guide took us to a spot where there was a leopard with a kill. We only had a bad sighting of the kill and none of the leopard. The rest of the drive was rather quiet. We did see Elephants, Buffalo, Giraffes and Impalas, but none of the animals you would expect to see at dusk or after dark. Only a Black-backed Jackal and 2 Scrub Hares made an appearance. Then, just a few kilometers from camp it happened…..
The photos are not perfect as I had to push the ISO on my camera sky high, but what a beauty. She lay there for a few minutes before getting up and moving out of sight. It was a great end to a rather quiet drive!
Timing in Kruger is everything. On camp moving day I was up early. My campsite was packed up by 05h00 and I had a quick shower. The CB camp gates opened a few minutes before 05h30, and I drove through them at 05h27. There was one OSV in front of me and no other cars. 100m from the gate I heard Impalas alarm call. The OSV drove on, but I stopped to see what they were worried about. They were alarm calling at this.
The beautiful, sleek animal came walking through the veld. One other OSV arrived, but for the best part of the sighting we were the only vehicles. The Cheetah crossed the road in front of my car and then walked parallel to the road in the direction of CB. I had to test my reversing skills to keep up.
By the time the swarm of OSVs arrived the Cheetah had started to move away from the road. I left the OSVs to enjoy the last views of the Cheetah and drove off, once again in awe what a difference a minute or two can make. This sighting really made up for the missed photos on the first day!
The Biyamiti Weir was quiet when I arrived. I stopped at the lookout point and the guide in the OSV pointed out 2 lions in the riverbed. One was lying flat while the other was looking around. It wasn’t long before they got up and moved to shade and out of sight.
I drove back to Skukuza via the Biyamiti loop. Two parked cars alerted me to a male lion in a place I was not expecting! I drove past to see if I could get a better view from the other side, but then he became completely invisible, probably why I missed him on my way to the weir.
Lions had made a buffalo kill on the H12 and I discovered them when the meal was basically over. There were many cars, but I must admit I have never seen people so well behaved and being so considerate. No-one parked in a way that impeded traffic. I took a couple of record photos and drove to the bridge. There were already a few Hooded Vultures waiting for leftovers. After spending some time on the bridge, I drove back to the sighting. There were fewer cars, and I could get better views.
I was still smiling about an hour after leaving the Hyena Den on the Thursday morning. I was driving along the H4-1 thinking that while it was so thrilling to see Leopards and Lions seeing Hyena cubs were just so much better for me. These thoughts were still going through my mind when BAM!
A male lion was walking towards the road. There was one OSV but no other cars.
He was followed by his brother that was walking with a bad limp.
Both looked in need of a good meal, but I was sure they would find something soon.
The morning was turning out to be incredible – Hyena Cubs, incredible birds and a fantastic Lion sighting. And then on the H1-2 – BAM BAM! Leopard in a tree. Not the most exciting sighting as the leopard moved his head twice in the time I spent there, but a leopard, nonetheless. And once again the people were incredibly well behaved, leaving ample space for those that did not want to linger.
On the Friday morning there were some young lions on the H12, but they were far away, and the view was not great.
The Park gave me a last parting gift on the morning I left. I came across a terrific traffic jam on the S1. Cheetah. I was just able to find a gap for one photo before it got up and disappeared.
Apparently, there was another one and it was still visible for one or 2 vehicles. But there were about 20 OSVs all trying to get a view and I just did not have the energy. I had to drive completely off the road to make my way past. Other people who were leaving and were towing caravans were stuck. But a last-minute Cheetah is still wonderful, even if the traffic was not.
Dogs
It was my last full day in the Park and I didn’t really know where I wanted to go. I considered roads to the south and the east, but the pull of the H 4-1 was too strong. It is one of my favourite roads in the Park, especially early in the day. Thank goodness for that decision. The hyena den was quiet – not a hyena in sight. A few hundred meters further I discovered why – there were dogs and hyenas a distance from the road. They were far but you could see them. I wondered if a kill was stolen. Then they started running back behind all the cars. There was a gap behind me and I managed to make a U-turn, just in time to see the dogs and hyenas burst onto the tar road. They were surprisingly aggressive towards each other. Then they were back into the bushes. There was a gap and I just pointed my camera and pressed the shutter as the dogs ran past. Thankfully I got a few photos.
Anyone who has ever tried to follow Wild Dogs knows how difficult it can be. I turned around again and could still see them for a while as they crossed the road again. But the visuals were not great and more cars were arriving, so I left. What a brilliant start to my last morning!
Birds of Prey
I did not see as many Birds of Prey as I would have liked. Being the start of summer there were obviously many Yellow-billed Kites around. I saw a few Bateleurs and one or two Wahlberg’s Eagles. Martial Eagles are powerful birds and I just love seeing them.
I was driving to Lower Sabie along the H4-2 when something in a tree caught my eye. A stately Verreaux’s Eagle-owl was watching all the vehicles go by.
Just before Lower Sabie there was another one in a tree, this time much closer.
There was a African Hawk-eagle on the Biyamiti Loop.
And I saw one of the smallest Birds of Prey, the adorable Perl-spotted Owlet.
The title of this trip report occurred to me as I was driving somewhere along one of the roads and just enjoying the fact that I was in Kruger. It wasn’t as a result of a specific sighting. I just experienced a general sense of happiness and the words to Louis Armstrong’s beautiful song popped into my head. It became a bit of an ear worm for the rest of the trip, but I did not mind, because Kruger is indeed a “Wonderful World”, and I can’t wait for my next trip!!!
THE END