Lions, Leopards and a Tiger – KNP October 2018
Tuesday
The second half of 2018 turned out very different than expected. When I made the reservation for this trip, I could not have known how absolutely perfect the timing would be. It has been a while since I needed a getaway this much. And I think the Park knew it, because it delivered in the most spectacular way!
I arrived at the Numbi gate at about mid-day. The staff at the gate were as friendly as ever, and within minutes I was in the Park.
As per normal, I “closed the door behind me” and breathed in the air of this fabulous place. Birds started popping out everywhere, and the first mammal that I saw was a duiker. This was a nice surprise, but unfortunately it was very overcast and he was moving, so I only got one bad photo.
I slowly made my way to Pretoriuskop for a quick body break. Before I left the camp, I drove around a bit, and I am so glad I did. I saw a number of cool birds – Purple Crested Turaco, Grey-headed Bushshrike, African Hoopoos, and a cute squirrel.
Then I saw the Red-headed weavers. I’ve never been able to get a decent photo of a male in breeding plumage, so this was really cool.
The plan was to drive from Pretoriuskop to Sukuza via the Byiamiti weir. Obviously there had to be the compulsory stops at Shithlave and Transport dams. Because of the activity at both dams these stops took really long, and I did not have enough time to get to the Byiamiti weir. I would have to go there the next day. Thank goodness my plans changed, because the visit to the weir would be spectacular, but more about that later.
At Shitlhave dam there were kudus, zebras, thirsty giraffes and a Saddle-billed Stork.
An adult Fish Eagle was calling from a tree nearby while the juvenile soared overhead.
After a while I was back on the tar road on the way to Transport dam. A dark shape far off in the bush had me screeching to a halt. It was a Sable. I managed one half decent photo before he moved behind the dry trees. He was visible for a while longer, but no photos were possible. 
While I was revelling in only my 2nd sighting of this majestic antelope in Kruger, 2 birds ran across the road in front of my car. I had to be quick to get record shots of my 2nd ever and first for Kruger sighting of Temmincs Coursers. These two exciting sightings in quick succession should have made it clear that this trip was going to be spectacular. More birds continued to entertain me on the way to Transport dam. Notables were a Willow Warbler and the first lifer in the form of a Green-capped Eremomela.
I saw my first elephants in the distance and the first of many Steenbokkies. There were also a beautiful Bateleur and a Red-ccested Korhaan.
Another reason it took me so long to get to Transport Dam is a small family of Southern Ground hornbills. I just really love these guys.
I also had to stop for this cute young hyena pup. 
I finally made it to Transport Dam. Three large elephants were quenching their thirst on the other side of the dam.
I poured coffee and enjoyed what has become one of my favourite places in Kruger. One elephant moved into the bushes towards the left of the dam, while the other two meandered along the edge of the water to the right side of the dam where they drank more water.
Then they entered the water, and this was the main reason why I was too late to go to Biyamiti. You will know how much I love elephants, and these two giants in the water meant that I was not going anywhere. They just soaked, submerging completely every now and then and occasionally touching.
It wasn’t just the elephants that provided entertainment. Zebras, Blue Wildebeest and Waterbuck came for a drink. There were also some sweet, fluffy babies.
There were also other usual birds around. There were lots of Red-breasted Swallows. A Green-backed Heron was skulking as only it could. A Hamerkop was feeding in the shallows, and a juvenile Bateleur was soaring overhead.
Eventually the two swimming elephants decided to join their friend and started walking across the dam. The Hamerkop and small croc had to make way quickly.
After the water a small mud bath and a scratch against the large rock was the perfect end to the fun.
Eventually I tore myself away from the dam and continued on to Skukuza. After the activity at Transport dam, the road was quiet. I saw a few baboons and kudus.
After a quick stop at Skukuza, I headed to Lake Panic. On the way I saw my first Common Buzzard of the summer and my first ever for Kruger. All the “usual Suspects were present – Green-backed Heron, Fish Eagle, baby Blacksmith Lapwings, Water Thick-knee and weavers. 
I wonder what this guy was smiling about.
There were also some “unusual suspects” (for me at least) – I don’t often see Grey herons at Lake Panic, and cannot recall ever seeing Little Egret and Natal Spurfowl there before.
I like this photo of the three species together.
A special moment was when a Duiker came down to the water’s edge to have a drink.
The familiar LP view is to die for.
I stopped at the golf course for a brief visit. There were more baby lapwings, a Fish Eagle, Black Crakes and a Scarlet-chested Sunbird. There were also a couple of handsome Nyalas.
Just past the N’waswitshaka river I found a trio of young hyenas next to the road. Their den must have been nearby. It was almost to dark for photos , but their faces were to cute to resist.
The sunset was pretty special.
That evening I had supper at the Cattle Baron. The view, the food and the service were as good as I remembered it. Back at my safari tent I lit a fire and poured some Amarula.
It had become somewhat windy, and small sparks flew off the fire like little fireflies. I had been up since 03h00 that morning, so it was a tired but very satisfied body that went to bed fairly early.
Wednesday
On Wednesday morning I did something that I have not done in a while – I waited in the queue to leave the gate. This gave me the opportunity to add two more birds to my trip list and my Kruger list – a Little Sparrowhawk and an African Goshhawk (identified when it flew away and called). There were some elephants, giraffes, kudus and impalas between the camp and De Laporte, but the early hour and overcast conditions made photos difficult. I was however happy to take bad photos of difficult to photograph Violet-eared Waxbills – another first for Kruger and one of my favourite tiny birds.
All was quiet at De Laporte. There was the customary evidence of road works that seems to have become a permanent fixture of the bridge, as well as a sleepy hyena. There were also a handful of Brown-headed parrots in a nearby tree. Further along the road I saw the back of a Red-chested Korhaan, and more kudus.
Just before the Biyamiti Loop turn off a Senegal Lapwing had me screeching to a halt. Another Lifer!
The Biyamiti loop was quiet. There were some small birds around. Then a large brown raptor landed on some rocks and started walking about. It was a very young African Harrierhawk.
About halfway down on the Biyamiti loop an OSV stopped me. The driver informed me of a difficult to see lion a little further on. But the big news was that the big Biyamiti leopard was out on the rocks at the weir. I had been dawdling up to then, but knowing that I could see the leopard made me push on a little.
But minutes after leaving the OSV I slammed on brakes. A beautiful young leopard ran across the road in front of me. I was incredulous. This wasn’t the leopard I was going to see??!! I could not believe that on my way to one leopard (hopefully), I saw another! He posed for a few minutes before disappearing towards the river bed. 
I did not see the lion, but as I approached the weir from the north, I could see 3 cars next to the rocks on the southern end, making it clear where the leopard was. As I drove around the rocks, this is what I saw. 
WOW! This big male was completely relaxed, allowing the the few cars ample time to enjoy him. Cars came and went, but I stayed with him for more than an hour. Even though he looked relaxed, he was keeping an eye on the herd of impala, but I think they were fully aware of his presence.
He changed position once. A bit of yawning before he moved a little bit down the rocks where he stayed for a while. But he must have realised he would not catch any impalas and he eventually walked away.
This had been the most incredible hour and a half! I drove away in awe. Within 15 minutes I had seen 2 leopards, both really great sightings as well, with no traffic jams!
The leopard was not the only item of interest at the weir. There was a Hamerkop nest in a tree next to the road. In the big tree on the northern side of the weir, there was a multitude of little birds – sparrows, woodpeckers, Orange-breasted Bushshrikes, sunbirds and more.
A few impalas came for a tentative drink. It is always great to be on eye level with the animals, even if i is the sinister eyes of a crocodile or the soft eyes of a hippo.
Once I managed to tear myself away from the weir, I drove north on the S114. There was little to see, but a little bird caught my attention. It was a little Pearl-spotted owlet, but unfortunately it was far away and I could only see it from the back. But it was the first of what would be four owl species I would see on this trip.
It was overcast and the light was fairly terrible, so I did not take to many photos along the way, but I did see Lilac-breasted rollers, squirrels and a Red-billed hornbill. At Renoster Koppies there were some bums in the waterhole.
I took the S112 to the tar road and then went to Kwaggapan. On the way I saw my first Leopard Tortoise of the trip. At Kwaggapan there was a Tawny eagle and an Elephant with a funny ear.
I decided to pay a last visit to Transport Dam. At the koppies at the H1-1 / H3 intersection, a car had stopped. I asked what they were looking at, and the answer was “Spotted Eagle-owl”. I could not believe it. I had hoped to see Verreaux’s Eagle Owls during this trip, but seeing the Spotted Eagle-owl made my day. Another first for Kruger, and a great one!
There was a large herd of buffalos at Transport dam.
There were also some Woolly-necked storks, the baby Egyptians, a hippo sleeping on the rocks, baboons, kudus, and some vervet monkeys.
The elephants were also still at Transport dam, and still enjoying the water. I enjoyed their fun for a while, but not as long as the previous day.
I took the S65 back to Skukuza. It was a fairly quiet drive with only a few Impalas, the Common buzzard again, a thirsty bush buck female.
There were also more Ground Hornbills.
On the S1 there was general game such as zebras, giraffes and a few ellies in the mix.
Before I went to Lake Panic, I stopped at Skukuza. It had been an incredible morning, but I needed a leg stretch. I walked along the fence and saw this large monitor lizard walking along the fence. I just love these guys – they have such a “bad boy” attitude!
Just outside the Skukuza gate was a small herd of elephants right next to the road. This caused a bit of a roadblock for a while, also because a large tour bus was part of the jam. The ellies were very relaxed, and eventually the cars started making their way past.
At Lake Panic it was once again a case of the usual suspects – Pied Kingfisher, Green-backed Heron, Black Crakes and a Little Egret. The Fish Eagle had caught lunch, but he flew away to have his meal away from prying eyes.
I like this photo of the two Jacanas.
A mother and child Bushbuck also came for a drink. Still one of my favourite antelopes.
Then there was movement behind the bushes on the right side of the hide on the other side of the lake. A lion…. At Lake Panic!!
Everyone held their breaths, hoping he would come down for a drink, but alas, he did not. I’ve cropped this photo, so he looks a lot closer that he was, but I love the stalking effect that it creates, and the way he looks at the camera.
Then there was more movement, and we realised that there were in fact three lions. While they were lying down and not moving, they were invisible.
They moved off behind the bushes, and I could only get a few record shots. But Lions at Lake Panic …. Really?
I didn’t stay much longer. Before I went to Skukuza, I drove to the low water bridge. Movement in the reeds caught my eye, and I almost drove off the bridge. It was another leopard!
My third sighting of the day! I looked in my rear-view mirror, but there was no-one behind me to share this with. No cars from the front either. I took some photos. A Kruger employee drove past, and I pointed at the leopard. He confirmed that he was aware of a female in the area and then drove off. The next minute two more ears appeared behind a rock.
The female had a companion. I have never seen two leopards together. I took photos with my mouth hanging open.
This has been the most incredible day I have had in Kruger, ever. I drove away, speechless. I drove a few kms on the H1-2 before turning back. Some elephants were drinking water in the river bed. I saw more handsome Kudus with their oxpecker companions. A troop of vervet monkeys and a huge Tawny Eagle completed the afternoon’s sightings.
Back at Skukuza I did not feel like dinner at the restaurant. I bought a take away sandwich and a cold one to drink, and went to sit on a bench next to the river to enjoy the view and recount the amazing day. I could not help but wonder (and worry) – how could the rest of the week be better than today? I need not have worried.
At my safari tent I saw a lightning fast movement on the floor – a solifuge. I hoped it would find the door rather than spend the night. I lit another fire, and enjoyed my customary Amarula. Before I went to bed I went on a scorpion hunt. I had no luck until I ran into two other people on the same mission, and they pointed out two scorpions that they had found. As I opened my safari tent door I realised that the solifuge had decided to spend the night – he was sitting against the roof of the tent above my door. Fortunately he did not move as I covered him with a glass and with the help of a sheet of paper moved him safely outside, and a good distance from my tent.
Since the moment I drove through the Park Gates the day before I had kept my eyes peeled for the eEV (elusive Egyptian Vulture), but no luck. I checked for updates on the group, and saw that it had been seen on the H3 near Kwaggapan the previous Friday. I had been past there twice during the day (and I was in the area the previous day), and I can confirm that there was no sight of him. But knowing that he had been in the area changed my plans for the next day drastically.
Thursday
I started my morning with my now customary early morning walk in the camp. Does it get better than this?
There was a sweet Bushbuck next to the fence. Some of the birds I saw included White-browed Robin Chats, Puffbacks, Bee-eaters and a Sombre Greenbull.
I was rather disappointed with the small number of birds I saw on my walk compared to previous trips. It was therefore a rather short walk, and because I had packed the car before the walk, I was out the gates before 06h30.
I had no choice but to go and look for the eEV one last time. I headed south again. Two dagga boys were relaxing meters from the camp gate. I also spotted a pale form Wahlberg’s Eagle in the distance
There were some kudus and two sleepy hyenas at De LaPorte.
There were lots of birds along the way. I saw the first of a few Grey Tit-flycatchers and more Southern White-crowned shrikes.
As 
I approached the S112 turn off, I looked and looked and looked, but no eEV. I drove to Kwaggapan, but still no eEV, just a family of warthogs. I was frustrated. Why could the bloody bird not be there??!! I drove down the S112 to Renosterkoppies. A couple of cars were parked next to the road. My frustration over the eEV evaporated immediately when I found out that they were looking at – lion cubs! There were two cubs, but only one was out in the open. He was lying on the rock, looking out over the bush like the future king of the jungle that he is.
After a while he moved out of sight to sleep with his sibling. I drove north on the S114, and then back south on the tar road again, hoping. Still nothing. All that I saw were steenbokkies, zebras and a Cardinal Woodpecker.
There have been no reports about the eEV since then. It seems it has gone back home.
I was staying at Lower Sabie for the next two nights, and drove there via the H1-2. There was very little to see initially, just a herd of buffaloes, giraffes and Nyalas. Then a few cars alerted me to the presence of a pride of lions on the other side of the river, but they were far, and taking photos was challenging with few gaps through the vegetation.
While I stopped at the sighting, a flash of colour flew past my car. The lions were temporarily forgotten as I chased the bird, and fortunately I found it a few trees down. It was a lifer that was very high on my wish list – a Thick-billed Roller!
I went back to the lions, but could not get a better view, and I continued on. A herd of Zebras was drinking at the bridge where the Sandriver turns away to meet up with the Sabie river.
As always I stopped for some time on the H12 bridge. A herd of elephants was crossing the river to the east. And kudus and impalas to the west. Before turning left on the H4-1 to LS, I first turned right and stopped at the first loopy next to the road where I had a drink and something to eat. A few Green-winged Pytillias joined me for lunch.
Refreshed, I made my way east. There were Nyalas and Monkeys.
Then there was a troop of baboons with this tiny one.
The slightly bigger baby embraced the tiny one, and it was such a sweet moment.
And then Big Cat week continued. First it was a male and female taking a nap in the shade in the river bed.
Meters further was a young male. He spotted something interesting, and was on his feet. I could follow him for a short distance before he disappeared.
As always you can count on seeing elephants in the Sabie river. There were also Buffalos and Waterbuck.
I did not stop at Nkulu, but as I drove past, I saw the solar panels – impressive. There were some giraffes and baboons, as well as my favourite Ground Hornbills.
There were very, very few cars at both the lion sightings earlier (as well as the leopards the previous day). Then meters past Lubyelubye there was a considerable traffic jam. I had no idea what the reason was, but there were loads of vultures in the surrounding trees. There were mostly Hooded and White-backed Vultures, but for obvious reasons I examined each and every one VERY closely.
If you look at the temperature gauge in my car, you can understand why these guys were sitting like this.
But soon the craziness of the traffic jam got too much and I left, still not knowing what the reason for it was. I did not even bother to ask, I just wanted quiet. I would find out later what it was all about. A few meters on there were some more lions, but they were not very visible.
I stopped for a bit at Sunset Dam. This was one of the reasons I decided to spend two nights at LS, I wanted to spend some quality time as this special dam. There was much more activity than what I was used to on my previous visits. There were giraffes, impalas and zebras. Spoonbills, Jacanas, Sandpipers, Storks, they were all there.
I went to check in as I had some meat in my cooler bag that I needed to get into the fridge. This poor Yellow-billed Kite looked like he would enjoy a few minutes in the fridge as well!
While checking in I also booked for the sunset drive that evening. I still had some time and drove back to the traffic jam – it was still as crazy as earlier, and I found out it was because lions made a kill there earlier in the day. I did not venture into that madness, but rather stopped at the other lions where there were only a few cars. This was an excellent choice, because they soon got up to walk down to the river, and crossed the road right in front of my car. Once again only a hand full of cars, allowing excellent views of lionesses within touching distance.
I made my way back to LS for the sunset drive. I stopped at Sunset Dam for a few minutes. There was a Pied Wagtail and a White-crowned Lapwing. I like the spurs on the lapwing.
The Jacanas were also still there.
While I waited for the sunset drive to start, I tried to photograph an Agama when I was “rudely” interrupted by “some guy” with comments about the ID of the agama. I looked up to see that it was Andy and Sue! What a wonderful and unexpected surprise! They were also on the sunset drive, and it was so great to spend time with them. Our guide was Michelle, and we soon headed west in the direction of the earlier traffic jam. On the way there we came across giraffes and elephants. When we arrived at the lion kill sighting, there were still a few cars, but we were able to see the lions clearly now. We spent a few minutes with them, but they were not doing much other than panting in the heat.
The rest of the drive took us on the H4-1, N’watimhiri causeway and back to LS on the H4-1. We saw the normal giraffes and impalas, and some monkeys. On the Ntamawiri road we came across a lone hyena. This face is one of the reasons why Hyenas are some of my favourite animals.
Michelle also pointed out a Dwarf Mongoose. We also saw this Duiker.
During the rest of the drive we mostly spotted general game with a very brief sighting of a Verreaux’s Eagle Owl. Then we got back to the lions. The female was lying in the road, while the other two were in the bush. 
We stopped at the kill. A rather gory sight, but at least we could see what all the fuss was about. Before the end of the drive we came across a Large Spotted Genet.
After the drive, Sue, Andy and I had a lovely dinner at M&B. Andy and I made use of the 24 hour breakfast offer, while Sue had a more traditional evening meal! It was really great to have company, and it was a great surprise and one that I thoroughly enjoyed.
Friday
The plan today was to drive to Crocodile Bridge via the S28 and back to LS. The day started pretty in pink.
However, as I left the gate, I turned right, along with many other cars. It was against my better judgement as I was in no mood for an early morning traffic jam at the lion sighting, but the hope that the eEV might be there was too much, and I really had no choice. There was no sign of lions, but there were still a lot of Hooded and White-backed Vultures. After confirming that the bird I was looking for was not there, I turned around to go back to LS and on to the S28. About 400m from the vultures an OSV had stopped. This was what they were looking at.
I looked in my rear-view mirror at the cars watching the vultures at what was left of the carcass. I could not believe how close they were without knowing about the cheetah. She walked around for a bit before lying down.
I drove away with a big smile on my face!
I stopped at Sunset Dam for coffee. This huge hippo looked at me as if he wanted some coffee as well.
There was a Squacco Heron on the far side of the dam, always a highlight for me. Closer to my side was a Giant Kingfisher, and this cute Malachite Kingfisher.
This Yellow-billed Stork looked as if he was smiling at a secret joke.
A trio of buffaloes was looking stately in the early morning sun – well, two were, the third was still sleeping in.
I think Black-winged stilts are some of the prettiest birds, and I love those spindly legs. He had an African Jacana for company.
A few Spoonbils also showed up to enjoy the wonderful tranquility of Sunset dam in the early morning hours.
As usual I stopped at the bridge over the Sabie River. A Giant Kingfisher was having breakfast.
There were more hippos. As usual the birds were everywhere – Red-breasted Swallows, a Brown Hooded Kingfisher and some Wire-tailed Swallows.
This Squacco Heron was a lot easier to photograph than its cousin at Sunset dam a few minutes earlier.
The beautiful song of the White-browed Scrub-robin had me stopping at the side of the road, and I spotted him nearby. Two cars stopped next to each other in front of me, chatting about sightings. I heard some comments that I liked, and also stopped to speak to the one guy. Apparently there were lions and cheetahs on the S28. On the way there I spotted some zebras and giraffes. There were also some Green Wood Hoopoos and monkeys.
The lions were easy to find. There were a few behind some bushes.
I continued on to where the cheetahs were supposed to be. As is often the case with the S28, there was lots of typical KNP game on show. Blue Wildebeest, warthogs and elephants were some that provided photo opportunities.
When I arrived at the spot where the cheetahs were supposed to be, there were a few other cars, but they confirmed that if the cheetahs were still around, they were not visible.
A young couple informed me that they had seen wild dogs near Croc Bridge. I headed off with a feeling of excitement in my tummy – would I achieve my goal of seeing all 7 of the unofficial “Big 7”? The answer was yes! By the time I reached the sighting, the pack had moved off, but one dog was still lying in the distance. He was very far, so no great pics, but I was thrilled that I managed to see at least one dog! Just before Croc Bridge there were two giraffes having a little skirmish.
I stopped for a few minutes at CB before heading to Hippo pools. I came across a large monitor lizard on the way. It was quiet at Hippo pools, but two Lesser Striped swallows were perched on the rocks. 
On the way back there were some Wildebeest under a tree and a young giraffe. A lone hyena was in a big hurry to get to wherever he was going! I was absolutely shocked as the state of the bush outside Croc Bridge. There is almost no vegetation left, and it really looks like an alien world.
I stopped on the bridge at Gezantfombi to see a little warthog family.
It was then back on the S28 as I still needed to visit Dukes and the Ntandanyathi hide. This time kudus and a Yellow-billed Hornbill joined the party on the S28, as well as three big elephants.
I checked in on the lions – they were still trying to keep cool under the small bush.
At first I was the only person in the hide, and I had a few quiet minutes in the coolness of the hide to relax and enjoy the scenery. I saw my first Open-billed stork of the trip. On the other side of the river were giraffes, impalas and wildebeest.
There were also a number of other birds – Grey-headed bushshrikes and sparrows, Prinias, a Scimitarbill, Grey heron and some Cattle Egrets.
I spent the best part of an hour in the hide before driving to Dukes. I first had a look at the lions – they had shifted position to another bush.
There was nothing to see on the way to Dukes. By now it was already extremely hot. Dukes was bone dry as has been the case with most of the waterholes I have seen so far. There was a panting Yellow-billed Hornbill in a tree that was soon chased from his shady spot by a Red-billed Hornbill.
The road continued to be quiet until I reached my favourite tree on the Gomondwane loop.
Soon I was back on the H4-2 – there were more giraffes and zebras.
I saw a large flock of Yellow-billed storks on the Sabie river – I have never seen so many of these birds together before. Just before I reached the Sabie river bridge, I saw two birds flying overhead. They were extremely high, and I was astonished to see they were Secretary birds! The photos are terrible because of how high they were. I did not know these birds could fly this high!
From the bridge I could see elephants, impalas, waterbuck and this browsing hippo.
This Fish Eagle caught something right next to the bridge.
The heat was insane, so I stopped for a short break at LS. I walked down the little walk way next to the restaurant and found this beautiful Brown-headed Parrot.
On the way out I spotted two of the LS locals in a secluded spot in the roof – I was very happy to see these two Barn Owls!
I decided to drive the route we drove during our sunset drive the previous day. When I approached the area where the lions have been hanging out, I was just in time to see the lionesses having a drink, with one crossing the river.
There were only a few cars, and it was easy to get a good spot and enjoy them. I loved how they interacted and showed affection towards each other.
My car’s temperature gauge showed that it was 43 degrees. I don’t know how hot that sand must have been!
There were some Vervet Monkeys on the Lubyelubye bridge.
Then there was a troop of baboons next to the road, with a mom and baby on the left side of the road. I stopped, closed by driver’s side window and opened the passenger window to take photos. Then my heart stopped before it started racing at a million beats a minute.
Suddenly a huge male baboon was sitting in the window of my passenger side door. My cooler box was in front of the passenger seat. The baboon immediately grabbed an empty Tupperware container that was on top of the cooler bag. Fortunately, the cooler has some mesh on the top and the container was underneath it, so he could not get it out. For two seconds I could not believe what was happening. Then I yelled “Shoo!” and grabbed the container as well. Luckily that made him jump backwards off the window, and not come at me. I quickly closed the window and drove away. I got the fright of my life, and even now my heartbeat speeds up when I think about it. But when I looked in my rear-view mirror I had to laugh, because he was still sitting in the road where he had landed, with a very dejected look on his face!
These baboons were a lot less scary. The mom wanted to put this little one down, but he screamed blue murder until he was back where he wanted to be. The minute he was on her back he settled and closed his eyes. So cute!
This little one was not in the most comfortable position, but he righted himself quickly!
There were buffaloes and elephants all along the river as usual. I also saw a Saddle-billed stork and my first ever Black Duck in Kruger.
A short while later I decided to turn around. It was extremely hot (43 degrees!), and I was tired. I think that after the incident with the baboon I did not concentrate for a bit because I missed the big male lion lying in the shade.
Before stopping at Sunset dam for the sunset, I popped into the Sabie river bridge. It was quiet this time except for a handsome Saddle-billed stork, the Open-billed stork and loads of Little Swifts with their bell-like calls.
I parked at Sunset dam with something cool to drink while watching the sunset, and enjoyed where I was. The usual birds were there. I do love the Yellow-billed storks.
The Black-winged Stilts have such long spindly legs.
The big crocs were on the side of the dam.
It was such a perfect moment. And then it got even better when the hippos started playing. It was absolute fun to watch, even if they were a little far away.
The sun was setting, I was enjoying a cold one, and it was the perfect end to my stay in the south of the park.
Saturday
It was an early goodbye to Sunset Dam before I headed north to Satara for the last part of my trip. The weather had changed dramatically – from 43 degrees the previous day, it was now overcast, drizzling on and off and very cold. I spent some time on the bridge before heading north on the tar road, but the light was pretty bad. There were some Jacanas, a Squacco Heron and a Fish Eagle. I always love Kruger lilies.
I continued north along the H10. I saw general game – There were a few Wildebeest and Zebras, with the odd Orange-breasted Bush shrike and Magpie Shrike mixed in.
Despite the bad weather it was never very quiet and the sightings continued with warthogs, giraffes, and elephants. I also saw a gorgeous Bateleur and some Red-breasted Swallows.
I had heard that the dam at Mlondozi was empty, but decided to stop there anyway in the hopes of seeing the mocking Cliff Cats I had seen there before. When I got out of the car, the cold wind hit me with a force. There were no chats about, but some zebras came for a drink at the water hole, and I spotted a duiker under a tree.
It was kudu day – I saw these majestic antelopes all over the place.
I also saw my first Ostrich of the trip. At the Muntshe turn off I saw a pair of Yellow-throated Longclaws.
There were more Red-breasted swallows, a species that is fast becoming one of my favourite little birds.
The rain was starting to come down more heavily now (you can see the rain drops in the photo above), and it stayed cold. I did not complain though – the Park is extremely dry and every drop of rain is needed.
A nice new bird for my Kruger list was a Montagu’s Harrier just south of the Nkumbe lookout point. This sweet little impala posed for a photo while the Lilac-breasted roller enjoyed the cooler weather.
There were loads of birds at the Nkumbe lookout point. There were little firefinches, and a Grey Tit-flycatcher. There was also a Paradise Flycatcher and a Cardinal Woodpecker.
Some of the little birds were flitting about the leaves, as if they were washing in the water droplets clinging to the leaves.
This view from Nkumbe will give you an idea of the weather that day.
Then I saw a pair of Klipspringers. I was so happy because I have missed out on these cute little ones on my last few trips.
There were more Lilac-breasted rollers and some young kudu bulls. There was also a herd of impalas and some of them had their little passengers.
I stopped at Orpen dam for a bit, and I heard a Piet-my-vrou calling. It was still freezing cold. Just before Tshokwane there was a handsome Martial Eagle. A band of Bandit Mongoose were rushing off somewhere. I did not stop at Tshokwane but carried on north.
Just north of Tshokwane I came across a small flock of Violet-backed Starlings. I was very pleased about this as this is not a bird I see often.
I had one lion sighting the entire day, and this was it.
More game and birds continued to keep me company in the cold and wet weather. There were more elephants, zebras and giraffes.
I also saw a Burchell’s Coucal and a thirsty tortoise.
I love Kori Bustards, and always look out for them when I am in Kruger. About 20km south of Satara I spotted one. Then I saw another, and another, and another …. There were 6 birds together! This was a fabulous sighting!
I reached Satara and checked in. My original reservation was for camping, but for various reasons I changed it to a bungalow in August. But I could not get the same accommodation for all three nights. The first night would be F-circle and the last 2 nights would be A-circle. With the miserable weather and a strong wind later that evening, I was really happy about not sleeping in a tent! I never (or very rarely) look at the sightings boards, but today I did. I saw that there had been numerous lion sightings on the S100. I wanted to drive that road anyway, so decided to go and see if the lions were still there.
But first I drove to Nsemani dam. I was shocked. There was not a drop of water. There was now dry, cracked soil in the spot where I had seen that adorable baby hippo 11 months ago. It was very sad. It was a quiet drive with only a couple of baboons and a Purple roller
Then I headed to the S100. As always you can count on seeing lots of general game – Blue wildebeest, waterbuck and giraffes.
But there were no lions. There were however loads of birds. Southern Black Tits, Orange Breasted Bushshrikes, and a Brown-hooded Kingfisher. 
The S100 is a really nice drive. I saw more zebras and a Little Bee-eater.
I also heard the knock-knock and then saw the Golden-tailed Woodpecker.
He then got busy with his wife with an activity not suitable for children!
This resting Giraffe and a Blue Wildebeest were keeping each other company.
Vultures, baboons, a Fish Eagle and an Emerald-spotted Wood-dove – the sightings were endless.
I popped in at Girivana dam, but it looked the same as Nsemani, and I left sad again. There were some elephants close to the dam.
I drove back to Satara on the S100. There were more waterbuck, impalas and a Lilac-breasted Roller.
I also found two beautiful Bateleurs in a tree.
Some of my last bird sightings for the day included a pair of Yellow-throated Longclaws.
There were a few more impalas and beautiful waterbuck.
I saw another steenbokkie and a couple of my favourite Bushbuck. And then another gorgeous Saddle-billed Stork.
It had been a long day, and the overcast, rainy weather made it quite dark, so I was back in camp early. I was supposed to braai, but it was really windy, so I had dinner at the restaurant instead and was in bed early. Despite the bad weather the entire day, Saturday turned out to be my best birding day of the trip, and I listed a whopping 107 bird species!
Sunday
I have wanted to drive the new road since it had been opened, and that was my destination on Sunday. It was still heavily overcast. There were some kudus right outside camp.
About 1km north of Satara I found the den of BBJ puppies that Jesscan had told me about. These guys were so cute!
A little further a herd of Blue Wildebeest formed a huddle.
A giraffe looked bemused. I came across some raptors along the way, among them a young Brow Snake Eagle. I just love those piercing yellow eyes.
A pair of Brown-headed parrots were having breakfast on a bush right next to the road.
As can be expected, there are lots of zebra herds around. I was excited to see a Chestnut-backed Sparrow-lark, and would see hundreds more over the next few days.
I was really surprised at how many Steenbokkies I saw, more than any other visit to the Park.
There were lots of little birds at the turn off to the new S147 that kept me occupied for a while. There were waxbills, Crested Francolin, Firefinches and Pin-tailed Whydahs to name a few.
About 1km from the turn off I saw 1 car parked in a little dip in the road. I asked what they were looking at, and they pointed at this.
I suddenly had tears in my eyes. I have wanted to see a leopard in a tree for so long, and here she was. But she had another little gift for us. Below the tree was her precious cub.
The overcast weather was not great for photos, especially of the cub in the gloomy area under the tree, but I did not care. This was my dream sighting. 
Then a hyena came sniffing. Mom was up ad snarling, and the cub was in a tree in a flash. When the hyena wandered off, the cub came down again. Then mom grabbed the left-overs from supper and jumped down. Soon they were gone. Add some thunder in the background and this time spent with these two were some of the most special moments I have ever spent in the Park.
You ca see a few more photos of the leopard here.
For 90% of the time that I was there it was only myself and the people in the other car. The one other car is something that I want to take a moment to comment on – this trip was the first trip that I did not book around public holidays to make the most out of my leave. I arrived in the Park on the day that the schools started. I found the Park to be very quiet, with extremely few cars at all the sightings I’ve had and would still have. It was an absolute pleasure.
Back to the S147 – it really is a lovely road, and there was lots of general game and birds.
I saw more Ground Hornbills and Kori Bustards. You can see the raindrops in the photos.
When I reached the S89, I turned left towards the S90 as I wanted to visit the low water bridge on the Olifants river. Just before I reached Balule, a car waved me down and told me about lions just around the corner. There was a pride of 7 lions – mostly young ones and one adult female that I could see.
I had a few minutes with them before they moved off. So far my timing on this trip has been perfect!
I arrived at the low water bridge on the Olifants. I think I crossed it 5 times! There was just so much going on! Fish eagles, Crakes, Lapwings, Kingfishers – it was fabulous.
But the little bird that had my camera working overtime was this male Greater Painted Snipe. I’ve seen it before but have not been able to take good photos. This guy however was foraging out in the open. What a lovely bird to add to my Kruger list!
Finally, I tore myself away from the bridge and continued on. The S91 was quiet all the way back to the tar. The earlier rain had formed puddles on the road, and as can be expected, the tortoises were out to quench their thirst.
I had to stop at the Olifants river bridge. The Little Swifts were there, as well as a pair of Yellow-billed Kites. Next to the bridge I spotted a Goliat heron. At the turn off to the S89 I found a Northern Black Korhaan. He did not seem to be impressed with the weather and just sat there, giving me a side-eye.
It was such a thrill to come across another Hornbill family. I hope that their numbers are increasing!
I stopped for some ellies – surprisingly my first for the day. In the process I also flushed a pair of Double-banded Sandgrouse – my first and only two of the entire trip.
Another herd of zebras showed their pretty bums.
There were more Kori Bustards. And then another one. The second one was showing off a little, just a pity he was not coming towards me.
Then I got another lifer – A black-bellied Korhaan. I was so excited!
I left this sighting and reflected how absolutely stunning this trip is turning out to be. I was so grateful for everything I was seeing and I am not ashamed to say I was also a little emotional. I was loving every second. I continued back to Satara with sightings of birds, baboons and another Ostrich.
I just love the dead trees in the Satara area.
Soon I was at the den with the Jackal Puppies again. They are so cute.
Again I fell into the trap of the sightings board. There were more lion sightings on the S100. I missed out on the lions the previous day, so I wondered if I should have a look. Even if there were no lions, I loved the S100, and off I went. I was happy to see more elephants.
This time the decision to follow the sightings board worked out. 3kms into the S100 I found the lions. The pride was lying next to the road.
There were a few cars, but everyone except two vehicles was very well behaved.
I loved this young male – he looked like a real character, and even sniffed around a car’s tires at one point. He also irritated this elephant that was browsing nearby.
There was also a beautiful lioness.
After a while wildebeest and impalas on the other side of the river caught their attention. It was fascinating to watch the stalk begin. The young mail was watching them, then 2 females joined.
One by one the pride disappeared into the river bed. I found a spot where I had a good view of them approaching and their possible meal. They disappeared into the vegetation. But while they were invisible to humans for a while, the impalas spotted them and the alarm was called. The pride appeared back in the river again. I followed them for a few more minutes, but as they were now less visible, I left them and started back to Satara for the sunset drive.
There was a traffic jam at the H7 turn off. There were a couple of lions in the grass not far from the road. I managed to see a few heads, but after the incredible sighting I just had, I did not stay long.
Outside my chalet I managed to get photos of an Orange-breasted Bushshrike and a Common Scimitarbill.
While I waited for the sunset drive to start, I listed another lifer at the restaurant – An African mourning dove!
This Marico sunbird was in a tree in the parking lot, and gave me a really stiff neck as I tried to get a photo!
I also visited with some of the other birdies around the shop. I just love the Arrow-marked Babblers. The Red-billed hornbill was also a lot more comfortable with my presence than its cousins outside camp.
We started the sunset drive and stopped at the lions in the grass. Now we could only see one lion. We continued on. Sightings included ellies, waterbuck, steenbokkies, giraffes, baboons and this hyena that looked rather pregnant.
We circled back. We took a moment to watch the incredible sunset.
The driver wanted to turn left onto the H7. We’ll never know where he wanted to go, because we never went there. As he turned, we saw the lions from earlier approaching the road. What followed was one of those close encounters that will stay with you forever. The guide asked if we wanted to stay with the lions. The answer was a resounding yes from everyone. We drove south on the H1-3 for quite a distance with the three lions walking next to and behind the truck almost at touching distance.
We saw some impalas not too far away, and we wondered if we might be in for some action. We picked up the impala eyes, but the action we got was not what we expected. In the road in front of us were three more lions. The six obviously knew each other, and it was amazing to see them greet each other and interact with affection. It was such a pity it was already dark. Two lions lay down right next to the truck, and you could hear the purring sounds.
One young male headed in the direction of the impalas, but the others were more interested in snuggling on the road. As much as we wanted to stay longer, we had to head back. But it had been fantastic to be with these incredible animals. And as it turned out, it was my last lion sighting of the trip – and what a sighting it was!
We were driving in the direction of Satara when the guide slammed on brakes and reversed. The people on the other side said “Snake!” I thought it was a puff adder or something “commom” to Kruger. Great was my surprise however when I saw what it was! There, in the middle of the road was the reason for the unusual species in my TR title. It was a beautiful Tiger snake.
It was very difficult to take photos as he was on the move, but this sighting was a real highlight. I’ve never seen a Tiger snake in the wild before, and this was a really cool sighting for the Park.
We had a little time left and turned onto the S100 for a km or so. Sightings included a Small Spotted Genet, a Verreaux’s Eagle Owl and a large herd of buffalo.
The sunset drive was fabulous, and I am so glad I went.
Monday
My last full day in the Park. I had to visit my birding spot on the Sweni River Road. But I took the scenic route via the Timbavati picnic spot as I had fallen into the sightings board trap again – someone had seen cheetah on the S40 south of the Timbavati picnic spot. The jackal puppies were out and about again.
I also saw adult jackals near the den for the first time – presumably the parents.
There were also some hyenas further on.
Further on there was a big Verreaux’s Eagle Owl in a tree next to the road. It looked as if he was about to have a meal.
The Brown-headed Parrots were on the bush again.
Shortly after turning onto the S127 a car had stopped. They were looking at another Verreaux’s Eagle Owl in the tree. It turned out there were actually three owls in the tree!
The rest of the road to the picnic spot was quiet with a few small birds. These included Green-winged Pytillias, Tchagras and Waxbills. There was also another ostrich. This Purple Roller looked really stunning in the morning light.
I was the first car at the picnic spot. I poured some coffee and sat on one of the benches and enjoyed the morning quiet – or the quiet the birds would allow. The birds included Cape Glossy and Red-winged starlings, Red-billed Firefinches, Blue Waxbills, Yellow-billed Hornbills, a White-browed Robin-chat – the list goes on and on.
There were a couple of bushbuck browsing around the bench I was sitting on. These are some of my favourite antelope and the moment was just peaceful.
A juvenile Bateleur soared overhead. On the way back to the car I saw a herd of buffalo crossing the dry river bed.
I loved seeing one of my favourite trees.
After about an hour I headed south. There was no sign of any cheetahs.
I had a body break as Satara and decided to go to Kumana dam before going to the Sweni River Road. It was a quiet drive to Kumana dam. Magpie shrikes sang their melodious song while a kudu looked on.
Kumana dam was completely dry. The only animals were a giraffe and a cute little squirrel feeding on the fruit of a saussage tree.
By the time I reached the Sweni waterhole, it was very hot. A herd of elephants was quenching their thirst. About 5-6km into the Sweni road there is a tiny loop next to the river. There is a massive tree next to it. It is a brilliant birding spot. It did not take long to compile a list of 20+ bird species in that one spot. Tchagras, Firefinces, Woodpeckers, Orange-breasted Bushshrike and a Kurrichane Thrush to name a few.
Next stop was the N’wanetsi picnic site and then the Sweni hide. By now it was insanely hot. The temperature had reached a blistering 42,5 degrees. The H6 was ridiculously quiet, but it did deliver one of my favourite sightings of the trip. Four Massive elephants were standing in the meagre shade of a tree not far from the road. They were huge. One by one they crossed the road. They were very relaxed as they walked across the road.
I watched them move off, in awe of their sheer size. I was grateful to reach the picnic site, but when I got out of the car the heat was oppressive. I went to the look-out point, but it was quiet. I did however have the unexpected sighting of a Mocking-cliff chat. Soon I was a the Sweni hide. There was only a small pool of water, but I was surprised at the amount of activity. There was a small herd of buffalo, a couple of Yellow-billed storks, a Giraffe, crocs and a Hamerkop.
A Black crake and Water Thick-knees made brief appearances. A Brown-headed Kingfisher disappeared into his nest in the river bank. Waxbills, Firefinces and Namaqua doves came for a drink, as did an impala and a waterbuck on the far side of the water. Just before I left a grey Heron and a troop of baboons showed up.
The S41 up to the S100 turn off was very quiet. I only saw a Martial eagle and a small herd of Waterbuck.
I was in two minds when I reached the S100 turn off – drive the S100 again, or carry on to the S90 and then back to Satara. I carried on. I will probably never drive this road again. I am sure the ridiculous heat played a role, but there were very, very few sightings. There were a few impalas and zebras at the Girivana waterhole, and for the rest of the time I saw a hand full of ellies, a couple of birds, but not much more.
I was relieved to be on the S90, but for a while the only sighting was another Kori bustard. There is a spot on the road where a stream crosses it, and at least this provided some fun with yet another Kori bustard, a Black Crake, and an African pipit.
Further on there were large flocks of Chestnut-backed Sparrowlarks. A few kms before the tar road I saw a Black-backed jackal, and then I released it was another jackal den. The one little one disappeared quickly, but the other one and mom lay down a little distance away. Then the pup got up and came towards the den. Mom watched the whole time.
The pup disappeared. I waited, but they did not make an appearance again. Back on the tar road there was a hyena making a beeline for some shade.
Close to Satara the other jackal puppies were still out, and this time mom was with them. I now saw all five pups together for the first time.
I found a spot on the S100 to watch the sunset, and a spectacular one it was.
As I left, I came across a Woolly-necked stork and a beautiful Brown-hooded kingfisher.
Back at the bungalow I lit the fire and went for a scorpion hunt. I found the AWC, some Little Swifts and a few scorpions.
Rhinos
Before we get to my last day, a few photos of the special ones I saw during the course of the trip.
This was a special moment – a crash of rhinos! It was so amazing to see 6 together. It was raining softly, and I just sat and enjoyed this incredible sighting.
Tuesday
The day that I would head back home. I packed the car with a heavy heart. I waited in the queue at the gate. I still had no idea what roads I would drive. The sightings board had the cheetahs south of the Timbavati picnic site – again. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to drive that way again, but I turned left anyway.
I drove north still not sure of what I wanted to do, when it hit me – drive the new road again! With this destination firmly ahead of me, I was more relaxed. The jackals were gone, but I saw a few hyenas.
The sunrise was completely spectacular.
The best thing about the area around Satara is the wide open spaces and the many sightings of general game you can count on. There were zebras and blue wildebeest.
Further on I came across a huge elephant.
Just before I got to the S147 There were more zebras, a Steenbokkie and two Tawny Eagles. I reached the spot where I had seen the leopards two days earlier, but they were not there. But less than 100m further there were a few cars. And there they were! The female was lying in the sun and the cub was playing nearby.
She got up and snuggled with her cub before they both disappeared into the river bed. What a special sighing for my last day!
The rest of the S147 was quiet compared to the previous time I drove there. I saw a few animals, White-headed vultures, a Bateleur and a sweet steenbokkie.
Back on the tar there were kudus, more steenbokkies and ellies.
And there were more Kori Bustards! I must have seen almost 20 during this trip!
The road was quiet all the way to the Timbavati picnic spot until I got to the 4-way junction. There was another leopard in a tree. Not the best sighting of the trip, but leopard no 7! I think I saw more leopards during this trip than all other trips combined!
I made a brief stop at the picnic site before heading back in the direction of the H7. There were some thirsty little ones.
I saw some buffalos, more ellies and another Bateleur.
Then I heard the strangest sound – for a few minutes I thought I may have discovered a new bird. I scanned the tree next to the road and eventually spotted the source of the strange sound – a noisy little squirrel.
I’ve never heard them make this weird noise before. Animal sightings were few and far between, but the birds continued to entertain. There were Orange –breasted bushshrikes, oxpeckers and hornbills.
Then this little bird tried to sneak across the road. I could not believe my eyes – there, in the middle of the day on what must have been a boiling hot road, was a Shelly’s Francolin! I was beyond thrilled with this lifer!
I had a few more animal and bird sightings, but all to soon I was at the waterhole outside Orpen camp. I took a few of my own “webcam” photos. I was just about to leave when a herd of elephants arrived. I watched them until they wondered off again.
It was so special to see my favourite animal just as I was about to leave the park!
And that, as they say is that. This incredible trip had to come to an end at some stage. As always I was sad to leave, but I was also taking some incredible memories – it will be a trip I will remember forever.
You can see a few more photos of the trip here.