And before I know it I was on my way to Skukuza – my last camp for this trip. I was excited to be on my way to my favourite camp, but it was also bitter sweet knowing I only had 3 nights left.
Number 10 – Lions
I only had 2 lion sightings while in the Skukuza area. The first was a mating pair on the S21. I’ve seen photos of these 2 on facebook – they were in the open and mating and giving the visitors incredible photo opportunities. But when I got there, this is what I got.
I patiently waited for about an hour, but he did not get up again. The female was not visible at all from where I was parked.
While I was on my way to the sighting, I counted 21 OSVs coming from the sighing
My 2nd (and last sighting of my trip) sighting was on the way back from Lower Sabie. I heard on the way there that there was a lioness with cubs, but I did not see them, and there were no cars in the spot where they were supposed to be. On the way back the traffic jam was one of the worst I’ve encountered. The cars coming from and going to Skukuza were all lined up in 2 very neat rows. The problem was that the cars at the sighing would not move, resulting loooooooong queues forming in either direction. Eventually I was close to where they were supposed to be, just in time to see the lioness lift her head and give the cars the evil eye.
I took a couple of evidence photos and tried to leave to give people behind me an opportunity to see her. But I was blocked in. And getting rather irritated and impatient. Finally I struggled out of the mess and was on my way back to Skukuza.
Number 9 – Sunset Dam
This is one of the stops I look forward to most when I visit Kruger. There were usual birds and crocs about.
I was also able to increase my Kruger list with this Little Stint.
Number 8 – Leeupan Elephants
On the way from Satara to Skukuza I stopped at Leeupan. There were some beautiful Saddle-billed Storks.
As I was leaving, I saw that the car in front of me had turned around. They told me that a large herd of elephants were on their way to the water. I positioned my car out of the way, and enjoyed this large herd walking past.
I counted the elephants, but stopped when I got to 50. I spent quite a bit of time with them. This was once again another magical ellie encounter.
Number 7 – Rain
When I arrived in Skukuza on the Thursday, the temperature was 38 degrees. It was really, really hot. But later that afternoon it started to rain. What a relief! There was a thunderstorm later that evening, and it was just fabulous to experience the thunder in the Park, especially after all the dry days I spent in the Park in 2016.
When I left the camp the next morning, it was still heavily overcast. Just outside Skukuza I came across an ellie on the wet road.
The clouds disappeared quite quickly, and most of the morning was sunny and warm. But just after lunch time the heavens opened again. I spent a couple of hours back in camp and ventured out when the rain stopped a little. Throughout the day I came across some thirsty animals.
Another creature enjoyed the wet road.
There was another little family that looked slightly damp.
I loved knowing that the overcast conditions would bring much needed rain that would provide some grazing for the coming winter.
Eventually I called it a day as the rainy weather limited sightings anyway. You can see the rain falling in this photo.
Number 6 – Birds
What would a top 10 be without some birdies?
This Pale form Wahlberg’s eagle was a highlight when I saw him early one morning on the S114.
This young Gabar Goshawk was enjoying an early breakfast on the S114 near Renosterkoppies. I love the light in these photos.
Most of the hornbills I came across were snacking on something. This Red-billed hornbill was foraging on the S21.
I don’t know what this African Grey hornbill was eating, but look at the stinger on that bug!
There were two Southern Ground hornbills next to the road. One was flushed when 2 impalas came storming past. I love taking photos of these guys – they are just the coolest with those gorgeous eyes.
It was already almost mid-April, and I really thought I was too late to see some of the summer visitors. I had already seen one Jacobin Cuckoo, and was very surprised to see another. I also saw a Levaillant’s Cuckoo near the turn off to Transport dam.
On the way to Nthandanyathi hide there was quite a lot of vultures circling and then landing nearby. I am not sure if there was a carcass or not.
At one stage I had to get fuel at Skukuza, but there was quite a queue of cars. Instead of waiting, I drove through the camp. I spotted this cute little Collared Sunbird with his lunch.
I saw many more birds in the Skukuza area, to many to add to a Trip Report, so I will end with a trio of Rollers.
Number 5 – Transport Dam
This is another of my favourite places to visit. I went there twice during my stay.
This Blacksmith Lapwing insisted that I take its picture.
There were some Waterbuck on the opposite side of the dam.
There were also the ever present hippos.
Birds were also present – White-faced whistling ducks, Bataleurs, Thick-knees, a pair if white-backed vultures building a nest. It was just a wonderful spot to stop and relax and enjoy a cup of coffee.
Number 4 – Lake Panic
Another place that needs no explanation why it is everyone’s favourite. And as always it delivered beautifully.
A Green-backed heron was fishing and I was fortunate to get some pics with him and his meal.
It is always amazing how it would take you ages to see something, and as soon as you see it for the first time, you then see it many times. It took me ages to see the Squacco heron at Lake Panic, but now I see it often.
As always the Pied Kingfisher and Fish Eagle were present as well.
I also experienced a couple of firsts at LP. I saw my first ever whistling ducks at LP. On the first day there was only one the right side of the hide. He was enjoying bath time.
There were 2 adults and a whole brood of teenagers. They came swimming past the tree, and then all of a sudden they accelerated in unison, speeding past the hide. It was so cute! The parents had done a good job of raising the 12 chicks.
Another first for me at LP was seeing an elephant. I was just in time to see him at the edge of the lake before he disappeared.
Normally the hippos are very quiet when I visit LP. This time the one was a little more “active”, and I could get some “big mouth” photos.
The African Jacanas were present as always.
Who can resist the beautiful LP lilies?
And you are always being watched when you are at Lake Panic.
Number 3 – Biyamiti Loop and Biyamiti Weir
I don’t know why it took me so long to discover the Biyamiti weir, but since I have, I have to visit it everytime I go to Kruger. This trip was no exception, and as I was leaving at the Malelane gate, I decided to drive the Byiamiti loop and visit the weir on my way out. The Biyamiti loop was exceptionally quiet. The only animals I saw were 2 impalas. And this cute squirrel.
Other than that, there was nothing else. There were a few birds along the way. In one tree I saw a couple of Cardinal Woodpecker.
There was also a pretty Fork-tailed Drongo.
Last year I was fortunate to see the leopard at the weir. This year there were no animals, and the resident hippo wasn’t in sight either. But the birds provided some entertainment.
I love the reflection of this Three-banded Plover.
A Giant Kingfisher was keeping a beady eye on the water in case a tasty fish made its appearance.
A Grey Heron posed as if he was made of marble.
Other birds include aPied Wagtail and a Thick-knee as well as a couple of Black Crake chicks, but they were hiding in the reeds and I could not get a clear photo. While I watched the antics of an immature Bataleur in the Biyamiti river bed, I spotted an Orb Web spider.
I continued on towards Afsaal. Just a km or so from the weir I came across a herd of elephants.
Number 2 – Hyenas
I had a number of hyena sightings in the Skukuza area. I had a few brief sightings of hyenas heading south from Skukuza, but they were all to fleeting to take photos.
The first hyena sighting was early on my first morning. I had just turned left at the 4 way stop to drive to Lower Sabie. 2 hyenas were lying on the side of the road. They were very sleepy. It was still to dark for decent photos, but I took some anyway.
I left Lake Panic one afternoon and drove back to Skukuza. When I got to the 4 way stop, I realised there was still time to drive to the low water bridge. I continued straight, and came across a roadblock caused by this.
I was the only car going in my direction, but the train of cars coming to Skukuza was already very long. But this little one was not perturbed at all, and continued his peaceful nap. Mom and a sibling were lying on the grass next to the road.
Then a car came up behind me and decided they will not wait. They drove past and woke the sleepy hyenas.
They ran into the bushes, and there you could see the rest of the clan sniffing and chatting and generally just making a noise.
I had parked my car as far off the tar as possible, and was enjoying the glimpses of their interaction I could see through the bushes. Then I noticed that another had sneaked up on my left. By now it was already getting dark, and the heavily overcast conditions did not help either, so I only took one photo.
On the morning I left the Park I drove via the S114 / S116. As I turned onto the S116 I stopped to ask the driver of an OSV if they had had any interesting sightings. He replied that the S116 was completely quiet.
Less than 1km further I came across a lone hyena.
And around the next bend there was this youngster.
The zebras nearby were harassing him by making rude comments. He soon trotted off, disappearing in the tall grass.
Once again it proves how critical timing is – the Guys before me had seen nothing, and less than 10 minutes later I see 2 hyenas.
General photos
Before we get to my last highlight, some general photos from my stay in Skukuza.
I think I may have mentioned in previous TRs just how much I love Skukuza and the surrounding area. I have never experienced the noisy parties from the staff village that some people have reported. Many people feel the camp is too busy, but I am out and about during the day, and by the time I get back in the evening, the camp is nice and quiet with just enough human noise to make it cosy. And I am not even remotely ashamed to say that I wipe away an emotional tear every time I cross the Sabie river on the H12 knowing that I am approaching my Kruger “home”. And this view has a lot to do with my feelings.
The rainy weather created really pretty scenery.
As I was driving to LS, I experienced what I think is my biggest “miss”. There were a couple of cars close on my heels. I am not a fan of this as I tend to break sharply for birds. So I stopped to take photos of a herd of impalas and to let the pass.
I noticed that the impalas all looked in the same direction at once, and as I looked in my rear view mirror, I was just in time to see a shape cross the road behind me and disappear into the grass. I reversed quickly, but the animal was gone. Given its general shape, size and the way it walked, I am about 90% sure it was a civit. It would have been my first ever civit sighting. But that 10% keeps nagging me, so I cannot tick this animal on my Kruger list…. Sigh…..
The primates provided entertainment as always. They are so naughty, but they can be so cute as well. A few photos of the vervet monkeys.
And the bigger cousin, often looking very pensive.
Other than the 2 lion sightings and the hyenas I did not see any other predators. The vegetarians made up for it though.
I also came across a MacDonald’s sign and a few tussling boys.
I saw a giraffe drinking at the water hole near Renosterkoppies.
My ellie encounters continued as was the case up to now. A big bull caused a road block, fortunately not for too long.
And another fella was grazing on a river bank.
I came across a very young monitor lizard between Tshokwane and Leeupan. I gently shooed him towards the side of the road and safety, scared that someone my come around the bend and not see him.
The road between Leeupan and Skukuza was fairly quiet, but the silhouette of 2 little creatures caught my eye.
And two last small creatures.
What a difference good rain can make. A comparison of a scene in September 2016 vs April 2017.
There was none of the sadness created by the drought I felt when I was there last year. Look how green it is compared to September! The “sadness” I felt this year had more to do with the fact that I only saw three grey rocks during my entire trip. These photos were taken during the course of the 10 days I spent in the Park –
I was driving on some road when I came around a bend and was just in time to see a mom and almost grown calf run across the road. I had no real photo opportunities except a few photos of their back sides disappearing between the bushes.
I was driving on another road when I saw a bird running in the road. I stopped to look through my binos to confirm that it was in fact another Natal Francolin, when a grey shape on my left caught my eye. My third and last rhino of my entire trip. He gave me a look, turned around and disappeared. If I had to mention one more “lowlight” it would be my disappointment at only seeing 3 rhinos in 10 days.
Number 1 – Wild dogs
I was on my way out of the Park. My mood was not good because like every other trip, I wanted this one to last forever. I had not visited Renoster Pan in a while, and decided to go there just because. I noticed quite a few cars turning onto the gravel road, and found it interesting, but did not think much of it. I realised later that all of them knew something that I was going to find out by chance.
There was a pack of the painted ones lying out in the open. There were quite a few cars, but everyone parked in such a way that there was no congestion and everyone had a good view.
Time was not standing still, and reluctantly I left them to continue to the gate. But I was thrilled that my decision to visit Renoster Pan had delivered such a wonderful sighting!
And to end off this trip – Given all my ellie sighings and experiences during this trip, it is probably fitting that the last animals I saw before leaving the park were also elephants. I saw a few between Renoster Pan and Malelane gate.
And a last goodbye before I drove through the gate.
And with that another extraordinary visit to our very special Park came to an end. I returned home with more wonderful memories of my time in this little piece of Heaven.