On 15 June I went to KNP for the day to twitch the Egyptian Vulture again. He had been hanging out at Transport dam the entire week. Did I see him this time?
Let’s just say that after my trip the score is Vulture 2, Karin 0.
He was at Transport Dam until 07h40, then it flew off. I got there at 09h00.
And he was back at Transport Dam on 16 June. Sigh. But I did see other baby Egyptians as I was leaving at the Malane gate.
The birds were a bit more co-operative. I saw a large (about 10-15 birds) of White-crowned Helmet-shrikes. I’ve never seen so many together before.
The next unexpected sighting was a Dark Chanting Goshawk. I’ve only seen one before, so this was a real highlight.
A lot of the vegetation around Pretoriuskop has been burned. I was driving along, thinking how much I dislike this, when movement in the burnt grass caught my eye. All of a sudden I was not unhappy with the burning at all – because now I could see a long sought after lifer – a Yellow-throated Longclaw!
In this photo you can see the reason for the second part of his name – just look at those little long claws!
I won’t pretend that I drove slowly (set my cruise control to about 40km/h). I had a fixed scope and fixed time, and I had to get to Transport dam – Once I had seen the vulture the day would be mine to do with as I chose.
But because I did not know at which gate I would leave, I did make a quick stop at Shitlave Dam. Just after the turn off to the dam I found my first impalas of the day. At the dam were a crocodile, a Grey Heron and a Western Cattle Egret.
There were also 2 waterbuck – a mom and her youngster. It seems it may be weaning time, because every time the young one wanted a drink from her, she would jump away. I think the days of mother’s milk may be numbered for this young one!
A little further on I saw another Dark Chanting Goshawk! Two in one day – very cool indeed.
At Transport Dam there was no sign of the Vulture. There were other people also looking for it, and they confirmed that they had not seen it yet. A Crested Francolin was walking in between the cars. On the far side of the dam were a mom and baby hippo.
As I was desperately scanning the surrounding area for the vulture, I spotted some movement on the south bank of the dam. A fairly large Monitor Lizard was making his way across the bank.
The vulture may not have been around, but some of his feathered cousins were.
Two Yellow-billed Hornbills were hanging out on one side of the dam. One of them tried to look superior to everyone that was there.
There were three Bateleurs flying over the dam. One of them landed right next to my car. I’ve never been this close to one of these wonderful birds. He did not stay for long, and took of minutes later.
He looks quite fierce in this pre-take off pose.
There was also a beautiful Fish Eagle. After a few turns over the dam he landed in a tree nearby and gave his distinctive call. Perfection. After a while I realized that the vulture was probably not going to show up. I decided to drive to Skukuza for a body break, and also for some signal to see if there had been any updates on the vulture.
On the way there, there were 2 hyenas. They were on their way somewhere, but the one took a moment to cool off in a pool of water. He just looks so happy with himself!
After a while he realized he needed to join his friend, and he left his swimming pool to catch up with his friend who had already crossed through the culvert under the road. On the other side the people watching got one last look before the 2 of them scampered off.
There was a large herd of buffaloes next to the road. Unfortunately they did not get a lot of attention from me because I saw vultures overhead and I focused my attention there in case one of them might be the elusive Egyptian Vulture. But they were not that, instead they were a couple of White-backed Vultures and 3 beautiful White-headed vultures.
The H1-1 is not one of my favourite roads – I very seldom see any animals on the last stretch before Skukuza. This time was no different – I only saw a Lilac-breasted Roller and a lone ellie hiding from photos.
Even my favourite De LaPorte was quiet, with only a pair of Burchell’s Starlings in the parking area.
I stopped at Skukuza for a body break and for the depressing news about the vulture. I contemplated going down to the river for my favourite view, but I looked at the time and decided not to. I was only going to spend 20-30 minutes at Lake Panic, and the news of the vulture made up my mind to leave via the Malalane Gate. That meant that I really had to get moving. And I will be truly grateful that I did not spend more time at Skukuza, because as you know, in Kruger, timing is EVERYTHING!
The water levels at Lake Panic are not yet what they needed to be. At female Nyala was having a very tentative drink.
On the far side of the lake was a couple of hippos with a number of young ones – a hippo nursery school perhaps?
To the left of the hide a couple of kudus also came for a drink. At one stage there were 4 species together – Kudu, Red-billed Oxpecker, green-backed heron and African Jacana.
I found a spot to the right of the hide to photograph the Pied Kingfisher, who, of course flew away the minute I took my seat. But I stayed where I was as I also spotted a Malachite Kingfisher on that side of the hide.
While waiting for the kingfisher to re-appear, I heard what sounded like an alarm call. I asked the lady next to me if that was am impala, and she nodded. Moments later, my heart almost stopped when someone behind me whispered – “there comes the leopard.”
I could not believe it. After so many years of visiting Lake Panic, I had almost given up hope of ever seeing a leopard at Lake Panic, and finally, during the shortest of visits, my dream comes true. The leopard appeared, and paused for a moment.
He was fully aware of the people in the hide, trying to stay quiet. He then took a few steps forward and sat down. For a long few minutes he just sat there, observing.
A huge hippo got out of the water, walked around the back and then came down to the water right next to the leopard. Neither seemed bothered with the other’s presence. It was great to get photos of the two in one frame.
The leopard finally came down for a drink after the hippo had gone into the water.
The low water level at Lake Panic is not ideal, but in this instance it had a positive result as the leopard had to come really close to drink. He drank thirstily for a while, looking around every few moments.
Once his thirst was properly quenched, he walked towards the little island to the right of the hide.
For a moment I thought he was going to come right up to the hide, but I think someone coming down the walkway must have spooked him as he sprang back and towards the trees. He stopped to looked back for a few moments, and then he was gone.
I was astonished. All of a sudden missing out on the vulture did not matter so much (for a little while at least – it still matters until I see it!) This was the most incredible 13 minutes. I have never seen a leopard for more than a few minutes or seconds, and here was this beautiful, relaxed animal, just hanging out and posing. 13 minutes from first to last photo. I was in heaven.
The poor Malachite Kingfisher was posing out in the open, hoping for some attention, but no-one seemed to be interested in it while the leopard was there.
And a close up of the hippo. it was also the closest I have ever been to a large hippo.
This leopard sighting will certainly remain one of my best sightings ever. I still cannot believe that I was there at the perfect time, and I still get goosbumps. Despite the fact that I took many photos, I also just put the camera down for a bit as well, just to be in the moment and enjoy the closeness of this incredible animal.
I left LP extremely happy. The road took me south back to Transport dam. The road back to Transport dam was as quiet as earlier. At the dam there was still no vulture. The Fish Eagle was still around, and a waterbuck was watching the world go by.
There was also another very big monitor lizard (or the same one from the morning?). This was a huge monitor lizard (all muscle), and you could see his confidence and lack of fear that he would become prey. When he reached the water he posed arrogantly.
Time was moving swiftly, and I had to start making my way towards the gate. I was wondering if I would leave the park without seeing any giraffes, when all of a sudden I saw 2 groups in quick succession.
The other animal that had been eluding me was a warthog, but fortunately a family of 3 crossed the road at one stage. I had only seen 2 elephants up to then with no photos of either, and I found it hard to believe that I may leave the Park without a photo of an ellie. I need not have worried. Just before Kwaggapan I came across a few next to the road.
A little further on I saw 2 birds in the road that literally had me clapping my hands!
Fortunately there were no other cars coming from either side because I parked my car across the road to get photos. I have really, really wanted to add Coqui Francolins to my life list, and here they were! They slowly tippy toed across the road, just slow enough to allow me some photos before another car came along. Lifer no 2 for the day!
I also saw a family of 2 adult and 1 sub-adult Southern Ground Hornbills. Unfortunately there was a car with a caravan right behind me, so I could not get into a good position for photos before they disappeared into the grass.
A brown shape in a tree had me slamming on the brakes. For a few seconds I hoped for the vulture, but it turned out to be my second Brown Snake Eagle of the day.
There was also a small flock of Yellow-fronted canaries and a Southern Red-billed Hornbill.
When I came around a bend in the road I encountered a small road block. The reason – a breeding herd of ellies was crossing the road. There were a few small ones with them, but they were very relaxed. As always, I really enjoyed the close presence of my favourite animal.
I had to stop for a small herd of female kudus crossing the road with graceful leaps. But they were not hanging around for any photos. This young male further on was more relaxed, and seemed inquisitive as he took a few tentative steps in my direction. He was a very handsome boy.
Just before the gate I saw the only vervet monkeys of the day. This little one was to adorable.
The last birds before I left were another Lilac-breasted Roller and some Helmeted Guineafowls.
At some point during the day I saw a small family of our beloved Grey Rocks.
It seemed appropriate that the last mammal I photographed before leaving was the first animal I saw that morning but could not photograph – a beautiful steenbokkie.
It was with a heavy heart that I drove through the gate. I stopped on the bridge for a last look. There were a number of crocks sunbathing, and a few really big ones.
It was the end of another quickie visit, and despite the miss, also a very, very rewarding eight hours!