23 December 2016
I was so excited to be on my way to MZNP, but a part of me also stayed behind as my son was working and would not be joining me and my mom on this trip. Christmas without him was not going to be as much fun.
I stopped in Bloem to pick up my mom and drop off my nephew’s Christmas present. It was a welcome break before the last stretch to MZNP.
We drove through the gates just after 14h00. The temperature was 39.5, and it was extremely windy. Everything was covered by a cloud of dust. But the dust could not hide the incredibly dry conditions – it was rather shocking to see the park that dry. Just before we reached the tar road we saw our first animals – black wilde beest, but too far for a photo.
Our first animals that posed for photos were some springboks.
At the turn off to the camp, there was a kudu in the shade of some trees escaping the heat of the day. Check-in went smoothly as is the case at all Parks, and we were very soon off-loading the luggage at unit no 4. What a view.
This Vervet Monkey was sitting across the path from our chalet. The local troop would live up to their reputation later in the trip.
There was no rest for the wicked, and very soon we were back in the car for our first drive on the familiar roads. I saw on the sightings board that cheetahs had been spotted on the Rooiplaat loop, and lions on Link road, and we were headed in that direction.
The hot, windy, dusty conditions continued, and soon the car was covered in sand. I did not care – I was just happy to be back. Sightings wise it was very quiet. Some animals were visible in the distance through the dust haze, but only a few presented photo opportunities. A few eland were resting in the shade.
There were also Blesbok, Springbok and Black Wildebees.
About halfway on Link road there is a little dam that had some water left. Here we saw our first Blue Cranes.
There was also a large tortoise enjoying the green grass. We would see him a few times during our visit.
We had driven the length of Rooiplaat Loop and Link Road without seeing any cheetahs or lions. It was disappointing, but that did not last long when you see this view.
At the bottom of the mountain I told my mom I am turning around – I was going to find the lions or the cheetahs or both. Turning around turned out to be an excellent decision!
Driving back on Link Road, we saw a little white car parked next to the road. I asked what they were looking at, and the lady said they had seen some bat-eared foxes come out of their den, but they had gone back in. We switched off the engine, and waited. Just two minutes later, five cubs made their appearance. I had never seen these cute animals before, and this was the best moment ever.
They did not enjoy the strong wind and three of them stayed huddled at the entrance of the den.
But two ventured out a little further. I think we can all agree they are super cute!
We stayed with them a little while – I could not bear to leave these adorable little animals. But there were cats to find, so we drove on.
We stopped briefly at the little dam again, but there were only a few baboons in the trees. At the point where the Link Road turns south at the top of the plateau, I saw a bakkie a little distance away. The long lens sticking out of the window indicated there was something to see, and I grabbed the binoculars.
And there he was, the King of the Karoo.
I drove closer and could soon get a better view of this massive male lion, tearing at something meaty. Unfortunately he was about 150m away, but you could still see how huge he is. You can also see how strong the wind was from the way his mane is blowing.
Even at the less than ideal distance, you could see how magnificent he is. Such a gorgeous animal.
I got excited as it looked as if he was going to come close towards the road.
But our hopes were short-lived. When he reached another bush, we noticed a dark shadow next to it. It was the other male. The first male looked out over his kingdom for a few seconds, then plonked down onto the ground and disappeared into the short grass. I could now understand how easy it would be to miss these large cats, and cheetahs.
We did not linger much longer as it did not look as if the two would move anytime soon. A last black wildebeest.
I went on the sunset drive. It was a rather quiet drive – despite the search for the female lions and cubs, we did not locate them. We saw some jackals, a gemsbok and buffalo and lots of bat-eared foxes (sadly mostly in the dark). An un-identified owl was a highlight. Despite the quiet drive, it was still wonderful experience, and the astonishing night sky more than made up for the lack of animal sightings.
I could not believe the amazing start to our trip – it was the perfect first day.
24 December 2016
When we checked in, I asked whether anyone else had booked for the cheetah tracking, but no-one had. The cheetah tracking required a minimum of two people, but if I was the only one, I could still go, provided I pay for two people. I wasn’t prepared to do that, and hoped that someone else would also book for this. While we were at the bat-eared foxes the previous evening, the lady at reception called to say another couple had booked, and I would be going the next morning. I was so excited, and would forever be grateful to the young couple from Germany who booked late on Friday evening.
As is always the case when I am in a National Park, there is no sleeping late. Because we would only leave on the cheetah tracking at 07h30, my mom and I went for a walk up to unit 20. There has been good progress on the construction of the new chalets, but because of the festive season, there was no construction in progress. There were a few birds around.
Just after 07h00 I walked to Reception to pay for the cheetah tracking and be ready to leave at 07h30. Unfortunately the game drive vehicle had a flat tyre (the first of the MZNP trip, but more about that later), and we only left shortly after 08h00. The wind had changed direction, and was still blowing strongly. It was not nearly as dusty as the previous afternoon, but it was surprisingly cold on the truck (temperatures plunged from 39.5C to about 22C, and it was a lot colder with the wind), and all of us made good use of the ponchos on the truck.
We drove for about an hour, with the guide stopping every now and then to see if he could pick up a signal. He was looking for two cheetah brothers specifically that had been released only two weeks before. Eventually he picked up a faint signal to the south-west of the Rooiplaat loop near the Park fence. He drove a little distance down an almost invisible track, and then we continued on foot. At the top of a little ridge he picked up the signal again. I scanned the area with the binoculars, and my heart skipped a beat when I saw what we had been looking for – first one cheetah, and then another coming over the hill towards us.
They went to lie down next to a bush, and we walked closer.
Finally we were no more than 10 paces away from them, and it will forever remain one of the most magical experiences of my life. To be that close to wild cheetahs was incredible, and the smile on my face was as wide as the sky above the Park.
Fortunately they got up and changed position a few times.
The one without the collar is apparently the more dominant one, but it was the one with the collar that was more willing to have his photo taken. Dominant or not, he poses like royalty.
We finally left them. For a while I just walked in silence, pondering the stunning morning. It was such a fantastic experience, and I would recommend it to anyone.
We did not see the cheetahs again during our trip. I did not mind, but I would have loved for my mom to see them as well. Before we got back to the camp we saw a cute little zebra with his parents.
I love the patterns on the backs of the mountain zebras.
We also had a great sighting of an African Harrier Hawk. After the walk we went on a short drive before lunch. The lions were still spotted on the Link Road, so we headed in that direction again. We first drove to the Doornhoek dam, and then to Link Road via the Ubejane Loop. The dam was quiet, but after turning around, we saw some sweet young Red Hartebeest.
In 2014 when we were here, this was a dam. Now it looked like a desert.
Another young one.
All along the link road there were animals –
Near the windmill I saw some movement in the bushes, and spotted an adult and juvenile Bokmakierie.
There is a water hole near the windmill, and there were always some animals around. They all seemed relaxed, and we thought that meant there were no lions around. We would find out later how deceptive their calm was, and how large lions can become quite invisible.
It was so dry – I really wonder how the animals find anything to eat.
Although it was a lot cooler than the previous day, we decided to go back to the chalet and only go on drive again at about 16h00. But I was to restless to stay in the chalet, and we took a walk up to the swimming pool. There was a troop of baboons on the rocks behind the pool, and some were chasing each other, and having a very loud conversation. Eventually things settled down.
I couldn’t believe how this one causally walked to the edge of the rock and sat down right on the edge – it was really high!
There were some birdies around the chalet.
All the Burchell’s zebras have been removed from the Park, and there are now only Mountain Zebras left. On our afternoon drive we saw a gorgeous Mountain Zebra. From the front she looks rather pregnant? She had to equally gorgeous companions.
One bird you are guaranteed to see at MZNP are the Ant-eating Chats. We saw some more zebras, and a skinny-looking gemsbok. We only saw some individuals, not the large herds we saw during previous visits.
We went looking for ground squirrels on the Ubejane loop, but found none. Instead we found some Double-banded Coursers. There were a couple, and a teeny tiny chick, but he was too far for a decent photo. The male posed very nicely though.
We drove past the bat-eared fox den again, and this time we could see mom. I could not get enough of these incredibly cute, fluffy little creatures!
We continued along Link road, and spotted the lions we had missed earlier. It is amazing how such a large animal can lie completely flat and almost disappear. They were also quite far from the road, and as there were no movement, we did not linger. You can also just make out the carcass of their latest meal.
We saw some more grazers on our way back to camp. No matter how many times I see eland, I am always astonished at their size, especially when I think of how high those massive bodies can jump.
We ended this most brilliant day with a Scaly-feathered finch.
25 December 2016
The plan for Christmas morning was to go on an early drive along the Kranskop loop, and then relax a bit before lunch at the restaurant.
I was still in the shower when my mom gave me the bad news.
A flat tyre – on Christmas day!
I had every intention of changing the tyre myself. I tried to loosen the nuts. Nothing happened. I tried again, and realised that as much as I know in theory how to change a tyre, my physical strength would not let me.
It was not yet 06h00, and since reception only opens at 07h00, there was little I could do. So I grabbed the camera and binocs, and went for a walk.
Some of the birdies I saw –
Another Bar-throated Apalis and a Red-eye Bulbul.
There were also a Familiar chat and a Common Buzzard.
By now it was just after 07h00, and a kind gentleman named Khaya helped me change the tyre. My car does not have a full sized spare wheel. It only has a “Marie”, so going on a drive on the dirt roads was out of the question. I did get hold of someone in Cradock who was willing to fix the tyre after lunch, so all was not lost.
Staying at the chalet was not boring at all. The local Vervet monkey troop was hanging about, and getting up to all kinds of mischief. This cute little baby seemed interested in me and my camera.
Then the fun started. Our neighbours in chalet number 3 had left a door open, and in a flash the monkeys had stolen chocolates and biscuits. These guys do not believe in the saying that “sharing is caring”, and proceeded to chase each other around and over the chalets to get some of the bounty. I wonder if they got tummy aches from the chocolate?
Finally they left and it was quiet once more. A few more birdies around the chalet – a Fiscal Flycatcher and a Karoo Scrub-robin.
We had a reservation at the restaurant for Christmas day lunch. I really have to compliment the staff – it was a stunning meal. The tables were decorated, the people were in a festive mood, and the food was scrumptious. The staff went to a lot of trouble to make everything perfect, and we loved it. A BIG THANK YOU to all of the MZNP staff for making the day special.
A little after lunch we drove to Cradock to have the tyre fixed. Fortunately it was a small puncture, and in no time at all we were back in MZNP.
We drove the Ubejane loop, Link road to the windmill where we had seen the lions, back to the Ubejane loop and back to camp. The temperatures were a lot lower than when we arrived, and I think it must have been a blessing to the animals.
At the waterhole on Link road there was a Grey heron pretending to be a Black Heron. It was fascinating to watch.
The lions were nowhere to be seen, but a jackal was hanging out near the carcass, probably making sure there are no scraps left.
The bat-eared foxes were out and about again, but this time they would not really pose for pics. It would be the last time we see them, so we visited with them for a while.
The Ubejane loop is known for its families of ground squirrels, but up to now we had not seen any, and it was rather disappointing. Today was different though, and we finally saw them. It is always such fun to watch these furry animals.
There was also a lovely kudu and some springbokkies.
Back on the main road to camp, we saw a herd of eland. The photo was taken directly into the setting sun, so it is not great, but this eland was huge, and had to be photographed.
Then we saw a small herd of gemsbok. The previous individuals we saw looked very skinny, and these seemed to look a little better.
A little further on a zebra was having a dust bath.
The female lions and cubs were reported to be in the area of Doornhoek dam, and we stopped there before returning to camp. It was quiet except for a woolly looking kudu.
Despite the flat tyre, Christmas day in MZNP was a very special day indeed, and I was quite sad that our last night at this special place had arrived.
26 December 2016
All too soon our last morning in MZNP arrived. This morning we finally drove the Kranskop loop, headed back to the chalet to load the car and then headed for the gate via Link Road.
We drove the first part of the Kranskop loop very slowly, keeping an eye out for the lions. I managed to spot them for a few seconds – one of the females and one of the cubs, but they quickly disappeared into the valley. We stayed in the area for a while, but we did not see them again. The few seconds that I did see them were still great though!
At Doornhoek dam there were some kudus and eland.
We saw some birdies along Kranskop loop – a Pied Starling and a Brown-hooded Kingfisher.
This pink flower stood out in the barren brown surroundings.
The rest of the drive along Kranskop loop delivered more birdies – Buff-streaked chats, sickle-winged chats, Cape vulture, and some unidentifiable LBJs.
The view from the top of the Kranskop Loop is very beautiful.
Just before we got back to the main road, we saw a small swarm of locusts. We quickly packed our car, and headed towards the gate, but via Link road again.
Shortly after turning off the main road, we came across this gorgeous lady resting in the shade of a tree.
There were a couple of herds of Blesbok on Link road near the windmill.
You can see just how dry it was.
(But I saw a photo taken from the same spot a few weeks later. The Park had received rain and. And it was lush and green!!)
As we drove off, I heard a strange sound. I knew immediately what the cause of the sound was, but I did not want to believe it.
After a quick look around to see if there were any predators, I jumped out, and walking around the car my fears were confirmed – another flat tyre!
This time it was the left front. The thing about MZNP that I love the most is that you can drive hours without seeing any other cars. This was one time I really wanted there to be other cars!
Fortunately there was faint signal, and I phoned Reception to ask if they could send someone to assist. While we waited, another car finally showed up and just as they were about to help, an MZNP truck showed up and the tyre was changed.
Now I had no choice but to drive on the dirt roads with the “Marie”, and the other car kindly offered to drive behind me until we reached the main road. I could not believe I had two flat tyres in two days, but what can you do?
With the tyre replaced, we were slowly on our way again. The drive to the gate was rather quiet, but there were a few lovely sightings none the less. At the water hole we came across this wonderful scene.
This ground squirrel was sneaking up towards the car, and I drove off before he got to close – the last thing I needed was for him to get underneath the car!
And with that our magical few days in MZNP had come to an end. Once again this little gem of a park delivered sightings and experiences I will never forget.
I exited the gate with a heavy heart, but I will come back many more times for sure! There were promising clouds building towards the south-west, and I left praying that they would bring much needed rain.
I drove to Cradock hoping that I would find tyre shop open on the public holiday that could fix my tyre before heading south on the N10 towards a brand new destination – Addo.
….. to be continued here …..