Thursday 30 January 2025
The gate opening time in January is 05h30, but I did not rush to leave. I had a cup of coffee on the patio outside my chalet and listened to the beautiful song of the White-browed Sparrow-weaver in the tree in front of my chalet. After a quick call with my son, I was ready to go.
Later I thought about the fact that I took my time to leave and the impact it would have on my day. Because, well, you will see …
It is hard to describe the joy I felt when I drove into the Park. It was appropriate that the first animal I saw was a Cape Hare – the happy way he bounced and hopped across the road matched my mood.
I stopped above the Samevloeing Waterhole. Many cars did not linger. It was still a little dark, but I noticed two shapes in the grass. 
They were eyeing a few Gemsbok, but they were soon spotted. The lionesses got up and one went to lie under a tree and the other settled in the grass. The sunrise was gorgeous. 
I drove to the bottom of the waterhole. The lioness in the grass looked lovely in the early rays of the sun.
I saw the cutest thing ever between Samevloeing and Leeudril – there were a few young Cape Foxes at a den site.
I had only seen one of these animals before, and that was at night, so this was a real treat. I made a mental note of the location for when I returned to Twee Rivieren.
Looking for animals is always about timing. And my later start and various stops contributed to this perfect moment. As I approached Leeudril I saw him walking towards me.
There were no other cars around, and I had him and his queen all to myself. They came to drink water at the waterhole close to the road.
They looked beautiful in the early morning light, even when they picked up a scent they did not quite enjoy!
It was the first time I had seen a black-maned Kalahari Lion up and about and he was gorgeous.
I spent some time with them until the male walked away. A few km further I had my 3rd lion sighting of the morning of another male and female, but they were walking fast and were not close to the road, so I did not take any photos.
I was surprised and delighted at how green it was between Leeudril and Kij Kij. The Devil’s Thorn flowers were everywhere.
The animals and birds looked spectacular against the green back drop, even the Cape Crows.
As I approached Kij Kij I noticed a small gaggle of cars just past the waterhole, I went to have a look what it was all about and found another gorgeous black-maned lion. He was with a pride of another 5 lions, but I could not see all of them. My 4th lion sighting in the first 2 hours of my drive!
There were more of the usual antelope as I travelled north, as well as this stunning Martial Eagle. When you see these raptors up close you cannot help but be impressed by their size.
My 5th lion sighting of the day was at Cheleka. Two lions were hidden between the trees and the water tank, but one lioness was lying under a tree. I don’t know if she was really interested in the Gemsbok, but the Gemsbok was not fooled.
Other lovely sightings along the way included a few White-backed Vultures and many Vlei Lilies.
During my first trip in 2023 I did not see a single Secretary Bird. I was therefore very excited when I saw one just before the first turn off to Marie’s Loop. He was a little far, but I was happy, and even happier when I saw the other one on the other side of the road!
The Rooikop waterhole was a hive of activity as far as birds were concerned. A young Tawny Eagle was drinking, but as soon as he flew off the little birds descended. There were Lark-like Buntings, Cape Sparrows, Grey-backed Sparrow-larks, Namaqua Doves and a Shaft-tailed Whydah.
It was mid-day when I reached Nossob. It was quite an experience setting up camp in the sweltering heat, and the swimming pool was like heaven when I went for a swim afterwards.
The cooldown experience was improved even more by the fact that I was able to buy ice-cream! They only started selling ice-cream at the Nossob shop the day before I arrived, thanks to the fact that Nossob now had 24 hour electricity due to being on solar power. I ate my ice-cream in the hide. There were a few Namaqua Doves and a Shaft-tailed Whydah.
I went on a short night walk. I saw many Sundowner Moths and hundreds of Cream-striped Owl Moths.
One poor Sundowner moth fell prey to a Ground Beetle.
I was looking for the venomous Parabuthus granulatus scorpion, but I only found this gorgeous Radiant Burrowing Scorpion.
Friday 31 January 2025
Even though the gate opening time was still 05h30 (it would change to 06h00 the next day), I only headed out at about 06h00. While I was getting ready, I was startled by movement next to my feet. It was a very relaxed Spotted Eagle Owl that seemed to be hunting the large moths that were attracted by my camping light.
I drove towards Marie’s Loop. A Spotted Hyena was having a drink. There were also a few Black-backed Jackals at the waterhole.
Their behaviour was very peculiar. They were constantly running up and down. One Jackal had blood on its tail but moved without a limp or any sign of discomfort.
They chased each other and I wondered if it was not a territorial dispute.
Their behaviour seemed to make the Hyena nervous as he was very skittish.
The hyena was not the only animal affected by the Jackals’ behaviour. I heard strange sounds and when I looked down, I spotted a Banded Mongoose.
He was watching the commotion and did not seem happy. It was only when the bigger animals moved away that he take the opportunity to dash off.
Another animal that seemed quite interesting in the events of the morning was a Blue Wildebeest.
When calm returned, I continued my drive. I was still thinking of the Banded Mongoose and for a moment I thought I saw another. I stopped but did not see anything. I scanned the area anyway, and then I saw something. My jaw dropped. I could not believe that I managed to spot it!
What a pretty little cat – just look at those eyes!
To this day I am still amazed that I saw it. I spent a bit of time with this little cat, and as a result almost missed a large cat. Just before the end of Marie’s Loop a few cars indicated something, and I was just in time to see a Cheetah that had just crossed the road.
Apparently, it has been on a kill, and looking at that belly, it must have been a substantial meal!
A little further on three Lanner Falcons were chasing each other over the dunes.
I spotted a Kori Bustard.
He walked up and down, and I realised that he wanted to cross the road, but my car was making him nervous. I drove past him and he crossed the road almost immediately.
On the way back a beautiful Black-chested Snake Eagle was soaring in the sky above. A cute little Ground Agama dashed across the road.
Just before Rooikop I saw the cutest, brand new baby Springbokkie. It would run a little, then lie down again. It was super cute to see.
A Blue Wildebeest and Gemsbok were drinking together at Rooikop before each went his own way.
I spent some time in the hide. I watched a Blue Wildebeest some distance to the left of the hide as he slowly approached, walking from shady spot to shady spot. He did not come for a drink but started grunting while looking to the far left of the hide. I saw some Wildebeest and Springbok and realised that he must be calling to his friends. Slowly they started making their way to the waterhole, the Springbokkies leading the way. The Springbokkies reached the waterhole first and a few came for a drink.
The Blue Wildebeest met up with his family and chaos erupted. There was galloping and running, and even the babies joined in.
The Springbokkies scattered but came back for a drink when the dust settled.
A Lanner Falcon came swooping over the hide and caught something, but unfortunately for those of us in the hide he went to eat it behind the bush where we could not see him.
For my afternoon drive I drove to Kwang. It would turn out to be a few of the best hours of the trip. The birds at the waterhole were incredible. There was a Secretary Bird, Vultures, Tawny Eagles and many, many Lanner Falcons. The Vultures sat next to the waterhole for a while before flying off.
The Lappet-faced Vultures soared overhead for a few minutes before disappearing.
The Secretary Bird came closer. I liked the various species together.
A beautiful pale form Tawny Eagle came for a drink.
But it was the Lanner Falcons that entertained the most.
They were either hunting birds or feeding on termites on the ground, but the action was endless.
I got a new camera at the end of last year and was still learning, and had hoped that my trip to KTP would give me an opportunity to practice birds in flight. These Lanner falcons presented the perfect opportunity to practice.
I spent about 2 hours at the waterhole and loved every second!
My camping neighbours arrived just as I was about to leave and told me about a lion just a few 100m north of the waterhole. I went to have a look quickly. It was not the best sighting as the lion was lying flat on the other side of the river, but any lion sighting is better than no lion sighting!
On the way back I stopped at Cubitje Quap for a few minutes and photographed some doves.
