When I arrived at the Park just before mid-day, it was swelteringly hot. After completing the admin I stopped at the large Baobab at the gate.
These beautiful creatures are some of the reasons why I knew I would love Mapungubwe. As I stood next to it and touched it and looked up and up into the branches, I said a word of thanks for the privilege to be where I was.
I drove into the Park, excited to get to know this wonderful world. Baobabs were everywhere. I think I photographed all of them at least 7 times! But how can you just drive past them when they are this magnificent!
I saw my first elephants a few kilometers from the gate, but they were moving away from the road.
I saw a few Blue Wildebeest, but they were mostly hiding in the shade of the many Shepherd’s trees that dotted the landscape. A Tawny Eagle surveyed the landscape from a perch high up on one of the beautiful sandstone ridges. The Impala Rams were in excellent condition.
The Blue Wildebeest were not the only animals hiding in the shade. This Meve’s starling was also trying to keep cool.
I stopped at the Tree Top Walk. The walkway had been damaged during the recent rain and was closed off about two thirds along the way. The view was still fantastic.
A pair of elephants were having a swim further down the river. The birding from the walkway was fantastic. I saw two White-backed Vultures on a nest. I heard and then spotted the African Fish Eagle in a tree on the opposite banks of the river. Carmine and White-fronted Bee-eaters were everywhere.
There were also a few little Willow Warblers in the trees. They were very active and busy, but I managed to get a few photos.
I drove to the Confluence Lookout point. The Baobab Trees continue to delight me.
A Zebra family was relaxing in the shade.
I sat on the bench at the picnic area while I had something to eat. I felt as if I would melt into a puddle of happiness and contentedness at the sight of this view.
I walked towards the lookout decks. It was very hot and probably not the best time of the day to do that. But I was rewarded with two lifer butterflies – a Topaz Arab and a Wandering Donkey Acrea. 
There are four viewing decks, and the views from all of them are breathtaking.
While I was enjoying the views and the stunning Baobab trees below, Barn Swallows, Brown-throated Martins and European Bee-eaters were entertaining in the skies above.
At one of the viewing decks I spotted a female Common Flat Lizard.
It was now late enough that I could go to my accommodation at Leokwe Camp. At the turn off to the camp I met a really wonderful guy. This elephant bull was walking towards me. It was one of those moments I had been waiting for.
There were more wonderful trees along the way.
I was very happy when I spotted some Klipspringers.
The accommodation at Leokwe camp was stunning. I loved the two connected rondawels with the lovely patio.
The best thing was the outdoor shower. I wished I’d booked another night there even before I brought in my luggage.
I opened a cold beverage and sat on the patio. I loved the view. A pair of Grey-headed Sparrows were very busy feeding their chicks in a nest in the roof of the chalet.
After I finished my drink I went to look for the infamous pool. I wonder how many people have a photo like this.
I spotted a few more Flat Lizards and a Rainbow Skink. I loved this baby Rock Fig that was growing on one of the rocks near the pool.
I took a slow drive towards the look out point. I was slowed down even more by the trees.
On the way to the look-out point there were Indigo Birds and Shrikes.
There were lots of zebras with babies.
I saw a large herd of elephants with a baby elephant. He was a little far, but undeniably cute.
The view from the Confluence look out was even better than earlier. The late afternoon light made everything more spectacular. I could not get enough.
On the way back to camp I saw more elephants. Four large elephant bulls were feeding next to the road. 
I switched of my car and sat with them for a while. My favourite animal in a Park that was already one of my favourite places, even after just a few hours.
I lit the fire and enjoyed the peaceful evening and the view. The call of a Pearl-spotted Owlet was the perfect background music.
A baobab tree against the evening sky. Perfection.
Leokwe Camp is not fenced, so my night time walk was short and close to the chalet and the pool (because, you know, my imagination), but I went for a walk anyway.
This cell phone photo of the stars doesn’t do them justice. The starry sky was beyond words beautiful.
I saw a a beautiful Silver striped Hawk moth and a few scorpions peeking out from cracks around the chalet. 
I love how they look in the UV light.
As I scanned my flashlight, I saw some eyes. Common sense told me they were the zebras or impalas I saw earlier, but my imagination said: what if they are not…. so I drove the 100m to the pool!
Night time sent the Flat Lizards to bed and brought the Turner’s Geckos out to play. There was an adorable baby Turner’s gecko.
The adults were just as cool.
The next morning I woke up early to go and watch the sunrise at the confluence lookout.
The Baobab next to my chalet was spectacular.
As I drove towards the lookout, I had to stop for these scenes.
I sat there for a few minutes with tears in my eyes and completely speechless. I had no idea how to describe something like this, and thought – a picture can truly paint a thousand words.
The sun came up as I walked up the walkway.
For the hundredth time that morning my breath left my body.
I stood on the viewing deck. I just stood there.
These are a few of my favourite things – Sunrises. Elephants. Baobabs.
And there they were. All three in one scene.
My being melted into a warm puddle of joy and happiness and gratitude and thankfulness.
I spent the next hour sipping coffee and watching. And I thought to myself – What a wonderful world!
I could hear the elephants feeding.
A beautiful sound behind me caught my attention. A gorgeous pair of Mocking-cliff Chats looked perfect in the perfect morning light.
But I couldn’t quite keep my eyes of the wonderful scene below.
Then the disturbers of the peace arrived. Not usually my favourite animal, these guys were actually quite entertaining.
I was amazed how they navigated the rocks without slipping.
I loved this little Familiar Chat.
Animals wandered the plains below the viewing deck. There was a little family of warthogs and a large herd of Blue Wildebeest.
A tree squirrel was pretending to be a rock squirrel.
I saw more butterflies. Another lifer came in the form of a Orange-lined Ringlet.
I finally headed back to camp. I saw a falcon hunt queleas, another elephant, and a stunning Lilac-breasted Roller.
A quick stop at the Tree Top Walk added a Paradise Flycatcher, Blue Heron and Goliath Heron to my bird list. A Squirrel was having breakfast, and the White-backed Vulture was on the nest again.
I saw a beautiful Little Bee-eater in a dead tree next to my car.
I was fascinated by a large group of ants that were obviously coming back from a raid. I could not make out what they were carrying, but it looks like larvae of some sort. I was also glad to see that another vehicle understood that we had to wait for them to cross the road before we continued.
I had booked to go on the Mapungubwe Hill Tour. I packed my car and headed towards the main gate. I saw the Klipspringers again, a Purple Roller, a Rufous-naped Lark and a Giraffe. And of course more irresistible views.
One of my favourite birds is the Southern White-crowned Shrike.
I was still a little early and stopped at the pond near the gate. There I saw one of the cutest things I’d ever seen, and a first for me. There was a momma Little Grebe with three adorable little Little Grebes. I’d never seen these babies before, and they were so cute! 
After a short drive we stopped at the side of the track and started our walk to Mapungubwe Hill.
We stopped at the excavation site. The history of the area and the people was really fascinating.
As we walked to the stairs, a pair of Verreaux’s Eagles flew overhead. We climbed the stairs to the top. I loved how the large Rock Fig seemed to guard the way up.
Johannes continued to regale us with the history and showed us where the re-burial site was.
Everywhere across the hill were signs of the people that lived there one thousand years ago.
I stood there looking out over this landscape filled with so much history and tradition, I thought that I wouldn’t mind living in such a setting on a permanent basis!
We headed back to the gate. On the way a large Rock Monitor crossed the road. Woodland kingfishers were calling from everywhere. We found a few giraffes lying down. My favourite sighting was once again two of my favourite things in one place.
I had also purchased a ticket to visit the museum. As I parked my car, a really weird looking bug landed on my windscreen,
The museum was very interesting. It repeated the information shared by Johannes, but had lovely images as well as artefacts from the area.
I had a really great lunch at the restaurant. I had lots of company while I ate.
I had to fetch my key for my accommodation at Vhembe Camp. I stopped at the little pond again. There was a Malachite Kingfisher hiding in the reeds as well as a Woodland Kingfisher. There were also lots of Damselflies and Dragonflies like this Violet Dropwing.
The road to Vhembe camp was not great and I did not see a single animal. I regretted booking for the night drive later as I was not looking forward to driving the road again. The trees made up for it though.
The accommodation at Vhembe was lovely. A bit of a climb to get there, but the view was wonderful.
I sat on the little balcony and drank a cooldrink and had a snack. It was another scorching day, so it was nice to relax for a bit.
I decided to take the long way to the gate for the night drive later and drove towards the confluence lookout.
I saw a huge flock of White-fronted Bee-eaters. The scenery along the way once again impressed.
I loved this scene.
I sat on one of the viewing decks at the Confluence look out. The Flat Lizards entertained me for a while.
I walked over to the Sunset Deck. It was still a while before sunset, so I made myself comfortable on one of the benches. I looked up into the branches of the Shepherd’s tree with the brilliant blue sky as a background. 
As I lay on the bench and stared up, I reflected on my first 30 hours in this amazing Park. I knew I would love it, And I loved it more than I thought I would.
The sun started setting.
I took many deep breaths. It was perfect.
I headed off to the gate. Another wonderful silhouette against a beautiful background.
The sunset drive was fairly quiet. We saw all the usual game and elephants right at the end. We also saw four Spotted Eagle-owls and a Square-tailed Nightjar. One one of the roads we saw a Puffadder crossing the road.
When we got back to the gate Leonard gave me some tips for when I got back to Vhembe camp. He advised that I needed make sure I turn my car to thoroughly light the parking area and surrounding area before getting up. And then walk straight to my tent. The reason – apparently there was a leopard in camp 2 nights earlier. Great. Because, you know – my over active imagination.
I took a deep breath and pointed my car to the not so great road. I have to admit I was a little nervous about driving the 13km on a less than great road in the dark. But then I came across an elephant feeding just off the road. I stopped for a few minutes. I could just make out his silhouette in the residual light from my car’s headlights. His calm presence was so comforting, and my nervousness evaporated completely. In the end the road was not nearly as bad as I anticipated. Before I knew it, I was at the camp. I scanned as much as I could, then made a dash for my tent. My imagination went crazy, but I made it to the tent without encountering any night time prowling creatures. And I slept like a baby.
I woke up to this.
I walked to a little rocky outcrop near the little hidden pond. I spotted this beautiful creature.
I thought it would be the perfect place to sit and watch the sunrise. I sat with my back against the tree trunk and watched this.
I had a handsome Mocking-cliff Chat that that watched this stunning sunrise with me. 
Before I left my tent, I stood on the little balcony one last time. A large flock of Queleas flew past.
Vhembe is a lovely camp – remote, rustic, quiet. If the road to the camp can be improved, I will stay there without hesitation.
After driving the road in the dark, I was a lot more comfortable driving it back to the gate. A trio of male Namaqua Doves caused a small roadblock for a bit. I also saw Impalas and Giraffes.
In one of the open clearings I saw the back of a Black-backed Jackal as it trotted away. Then I saw that I was being watched.
Again the trees stopped me in my tracks.
I couldn’t drive past the little dam near the gate without stopping. There was a large herd of Impalas on the far side.
The Egyptian Goose came in for a landing. 
There were also a few Knob-billed Ducks.
I noticed some bird action on the other side of the road.
A Gabar Goshawk was hunting Starlings.
Then I noticed a couple of other birds. I was very excited to see these Meyer’s Parrots as they were lifers.
I saw someone was watching me.
And with that my stay in the Eastern side of the Park came to an end. As I drove to the Western section, I reflected once more on the last couple of days. I was in love. Irrevocably in love.