Saturday
It took quite a bit longer to arrive at the Malelane Gate compared to other trips. There were a lot of roadworks before and after Mbombela and I had to take two detours. But I arrived just before 10h00 – ecstatic as always to be at the gate. I did my usual spot of birding on the bridge before going to reception. Friendly staff made the admin process a breeze and within minutes I headed into the Park.
The feeling of excitement and joy and delight I feel when driving into the Park seem to increase with every visit. And then you wonder – what will I see first?
On this very hot morning, my first animals were a mom and calf.
Little did I know it would set the trend for the holiday – lots of quality time with my favourite animal!
It was the end of November, which means lots of baby Impalas. But the first Impalas I saw were just a couple of bachelor herds. I also saw a few Giraffes in the distance.
About 20 minutes after entering the Park I came across a traffic jam.
Leopard.
I had to maneuver past the cars and turn around to see him.
He got up and walked around the bush he had been sitting under. Some vehicles had left by then and it gave me a gap to drive back past the bush and into the perfect spot to see him approach.
What an absolutely stunning animal.
He walked further into the bushes and I continued on to Skukuza.
I knew it would be hot as there had been a heat wave in the area the week before, but the temperature was still surprising. I did see animals – Zebras, a Steenbokkie lying in the shade of a tree and another elephant.
Then, finally, my first baby Impalas!
I saw a few warthogs and Blue Wildebeest.
But the heat kept the animals tucked under shady bushes and the birds hidden and quiet.
When I arrived in Skukuza, the temperature was 42 degrees. I found a suitable camping spot, but there was no way I could pitch my tent in that heat, so I went for lunch at the Cattle Baron.
This was my last trip of this incredible year. I had been to so many wonderful and astonishing places, and I had seen beauty that brought tears to my eyes on more than one occasion. But as I stood looking at my favourite view, I realised that there really is no place like home!
After the refreshing salad and cold beer I headed to Lake Panic. I spotted this African Hawk Eagle in a tree. When I looked at the photos when I arrived home, it looked as if it only had one eye.
When I arrived at Lake Panic, I was surprised to find a colleague from work in the hide! We are still working from home, and it was nice to see each other and catch up.
The bird life around the hide never disappoints. There were Striated Herons and Squaco Heron’s hunting near the hide.
The resident Fish Eagles had a successful reeding season and I saw one of the youngsters.
One of the adults landed across from the hide and then played peek-a-boo with us.
There was also a family of Water Thick-knees. Their behaviour was fascinating.
A young Pied Kingfisher was constantly demanding food from its parents.
The Black Crakes were less shy than usual.
Eventually I headed back to camp. My tent is fairly easy to put up, but on this scorching afternoon it was hard work – due to the heat as well as the ground that was as hard as granite. But eventually everything was set up and I could relax. This trip was going to be my longest trip to Kruger to date (16 glorious nights!), and I was glad that all the hard work was for 6 nights and not less!
I had an early braai and then went for my customary walk. It was surprisingly quiet, but I did find a couple of spiders and beetles and this Platanna.
I heard the buzzing of wings near the shops and saw this Southern Riverking dragonfly.
But the sighting of the day happened when I walked underneath the deck of the restaurant and came face to face with a Porcupine! He turned around as soon as he saw me, and I was only able to see its bum. But what a fabulous encounter!
I hoped he would come out from under the bushes, but unfortunately he did not.
As is to be expected, my first hours in the Park was everything I had expected and more. I fell asleep with a very satisfied smile on my face.
Sunday
I left camp a little after gate opening. There is something so incredibly special and exciting about your first morning in Kruger!
The sun had not yet risen, and with clouds around, it was quite dark as I headed towards Lower Sabie. I saw all the usual suspects in the pre-dawn gloom – Zebras, Impalas, Blue Wildebeest, Giraffes, Bushbuck, Nyalas and elephants.
I saw a Black-winged Kite in a tree next to the river, only the second time I had seen one of these raptors in Kruger. There were also some Hooded Vultures in a tree.
At the intersection with the H12 there was a herd of Impalas with lambs and troop of Baboons with babies.
A little further a band of Banded Mongoose dashed across the road. I think the last time I saw some of these animals in Kruger was in 2017!
And then the Elephant Magic started. First a roadblock that took some time to clear. I did not mind. There were no other cars. I was in no rush. I just sat, sipped my coffee and enjoyed the scene.
There were more elephants along the way.
After a few more elephant crossings, I arrived at Sunset Dam.
A White-crowned Lapwing and a family of Egyptian Geese were close to the car while Zebras where stirring up dust on the far side.
The resident hippos and crocodiles were visible, as well as some impalas.
After a quick stop at Lower Sabie, I continued on to the Ntandanyathi Hide via Dukes. At the little pan on the way to Dukes my day was made. Wallowing Hyenas. But as I arrived, a couple of Warthogs arrived and chased the Hyenas from the mud.
The Warthogs then enjoyed the muddy wallow.
It seemed to be a day for wallowing Warthogs, because just a little further I found another one.
You could see the enjoyment on all of their faces and I was a little envious of their ability to cool down on a day that had become very hot.
Things were a little quiet at the Ntandanyathi Hide. I spotted a Grey Heron in the tree across from the hide as well as a couple of Black Crakes between the water lilies below the hide. The S28 towards Crocodile Bridge was extremely quiet. Only as I approached the tar road did I see Zebras, Blue Wildebeest and Giraffes as well as a couple of Elephants.
I heard about Wild Dogs on the S25 and thought I may as well go and see if they are still there. Hippo Pools was quiet with only a few Lesser Striped Swallows around.
I loved this scene with the Giraffe under the tree.
There were a few more Impalas and Zebras. Birds included Red-billed Hornbills and a couple of cute Blue Waxbills.
When I arrived as the spot where the Wild Dogs were, I found them flat.
But thankfully a herd of Elephants arrived and woke them from their slumber, allowing me a few photos.
But the Elephants were unhappy, the road and bridge were narrow and there were a lot of cars, so I did not linger.
With a last glimpse of the rest of the pack further away, I headed to Mpondo Dam. On the way there were more Impalas with babies, Zebras and wallowing Buffalos. Things were quiet at the dam, but I was entertained by a Blacksmith Lapwing that took offence to the presence of an Indian Myna and chased him all over the place!
Then it was back to Skukuza via the Road of Nothing – the H5. And it lived up to its name once more, with no animals or birds to be found.
I relaxed in camp for a bit and found this adorable Thyene sp Jumping Spider.
My afternoon drive took me along the H1-2, across the Sabie River and back to Skukuza. It was a lovely, although rather quiet drive. I saw a male Chinspot Batis as well as a stunning Martial Eagle and Nyalas with a cute baby.
The baby sighting of the day belonged to this little Impala – by far the youngest little one I have seen. I guessed it was not more than a couple of days old.
From the bridge at the Sabi River I saw a couple of Goliath Herons on what I presumed was their nest.
My night walk was extremely quiet and therefore quite short, and the only notable find was a Wahlberg’s Thick-toed Gecko.
A quick dip in the pool ended a perfect day.
Monday
Again I left camp a few minutes after the gate opened at 04h30. The destination for the day was the Biyamiti Weir. Just 700m before the turn off to the S114 I found something that still makes me smile. Six Hyena cubs!
It was very overcast, and still very dark, and photos were difficult. But that did not deter from the amazing moment.
There was one adult babysitting. The six cubs were playing about – with sticks and elephant dung and the adult and each other.
I loved it. I stayed a while until they moved off the road, sadly before the light improved.
It started to drizzle, and that brought out the tortoises.
At Kwaggaspan I saw an animal running past the waterhole. I was a Side Striped Jackal! My first ever sighting of one of these animals.
The drizzle continued but stopped as I turned onto the Biyamiti loop. I saw a few birds, Impalas and Zebras.
There was very little water at the weir. It was the driest I’ve ever seen it. But I did see an old friend (or at least I would like to think so).
When I stayed in Skukuza at the beginning of December 2021 I saw a Pied Wagtail with babies in her nest, and once again I found the Wagtail and her nest. I will never know if it is the same bird from two years before or offspring of that bird, but it made me really happy to see them.
I watched mom feed the babies without pause.
One little one stuck his bum over the edge to relieve himself, and within minutes mom was there to clean up.
I sat watching them for a long time, taking too many photos.
Other birds at the Weir included a Striated Heron, Egyptian Goose and Blacksmith Lapwing family.
On the way to Transport Dam I spotted a Levaillant’s Cuckoo with an interesting hairdo.
Transport Dam has become one of my absolute favourite places to spend time at. There is always something to see, and despite the weather conditions, today was no different. A pair of Brown-headed Parrots came for a snack.
There is always a Burchell’s Starling that hangs around the cars.
I spotted Waterbuck and Blue Wildebeest.
Pair of Black Crakes sneaked about and a spot of blue caught my eye.
As I drove back to Skukuza, I saw two animals in the road.
It looked as if the hyena had seen the tortoise and I was worried that the Hyena may want to inspect the Tortoise and do something bad to it, But the Hyena disappeared into the bushes as I approached.
It was mid-day and I thought lunch at Lake Panic was a great idea. This hippo made me very envious – he looked so happy in the cool water while I was sitting in a rather hot bird hide!
A Nyala mom and calf came for lunch as well, but while mom was comfortable eating, the youngster was skittish and disappeared into the trees quickly.
A female Kudu appeared on the other side of the lake. She was joined by a large herd of Impalas. They came to drink and we noticed a croc sneaking up to the water’s edge, but they moved away before he could make his move.
It would be easy to miss this guy in the shade.
A Striated Heron approached and then found itself a small snack for lunch.
Back in Skukuza I went to the shop for water and walked along the fence. I saw Common and Blue Waxbills. A sound in the grass caught my attention and I saw this cute little mouse.
I wanted to see if the Hyenas were out and about. As I drove past the den it was quiet. I continued on to De Laporte. I loved the reflection of the dove in the water.
Two Giraffes were necking.
There was also a lone Elephant eating peacefully.
When I arrived back at the Hyena Den one adult had arrived and two cubs were suckling.
I just love this face!
Mom remained relaxed the whole time, even when the little ones squabbled.
I did not go for a night walk. After my braai I sat in the dark and listened to the night sounds. The full moon rose for the perfect end to another exceptional day.
Tuesday
The plan for the day was to drive to Mlondozi Picnic Site. But before I headed in that direction I had to check on the Hyenas first.
There were 6 or 7 adults and the 6 cubs. The interaction was amazing.
One youngster was watching everything with interest.
The adults were making the young hyenas a little nervous, and it wasn’t long before most had disappeared into the bushes or the den.
Just after turning onto the H4-1 I saw a couple of cars next to the road. The reason – two sleeping lions. As I arrived the one lion lifted his head.
He was a handsome fellow but in desperate need of a good meal. He did a bit of grooming before getting up and joining his partner behind the bushes.
The light was terrible for photos, but it was a fantastic sighting so early in the day.
As always the birding along the H4-1 was exceptional. This morning there was a bit of colour in the form of Blue Waxbills and Red-billed Firefinches.
At the bridge over the Sabi River I saw the young Goliath Geron again. He seemed quite irritated by the Egret flying over.
As is to be expected of the H4-1, there were a lot of Elephants.
I stopped on one of the bridges to watch a Tawny Eagle hunting something in the long grass and a Drongo chase another Tawny Eagle, when a car stopped beside me and told me of some Wild Dogs a few km further. I did find the dogs, but only saw the tip of an ear. The animal I saw on the way to the dogs stole the show.
He walked in the road for a bit before disappearing into the tall grass.
I made a quick stop at Sunset Dam.
There were Impalas, Yellow-billed Storks, Spoonbils and White-Faced Whistling Ducks on the far side.
A Sandpiper came a little closer.
I stopped for a quick body break at Lower Sabi and saw this delightfull little fellow.
It was quiet at Mlondozi, both from an animal and a people perspective. I did see some Elephants and Hippos.
On the way back I added two birds to the trip list – a Rufous-naped Lark and a Yellow-throated Longclaw.
I saw another gorgeous Elephant.
There is a little dam between Lower Sabi and Skukuza, and there was a group of Hippos in the dam.
The guys in the water were having a lot of fun.
There was also a Silver Surfer.
As I drove something in a tree caught my eye. It looked like a really great place for a nap!
There were lots of animals on the Sabie River bed, including three of the Big 5.
I spent the afternoon at Lake Panic, and it was fantastic. When I arrived a Striated Heron was tenderising a Platanna that it had caught.
This process lasted quite a while, and just as I thought I would see the frog going down his throat, a Squacco Heron came in and chased him to the other side of the lake.
The Water Thick-knees were still walking in their strange manner while one decided it was better to cool down.
A Waterbuck came right up to the hide. I just love their heart-shaped noses.
The young Striated Heron was out in the open for a change.
Woodland Kingfishers are some of the prettiest birds, and one landed in a bush near the hide.
But the best part of the afternoon was the Fish Eagles. One of the adults had caught a fish and landed in a tree near the hide. It then proceeded to call and call for the kids to come.
Both kids listened and came flying in.
The adult gave one of them the fish and flew off to find another. The youngster had a few precarious moments balancing, holding on to the fish and eating.
Both young Fish Eagles then flew off to follow the adult. It was an incredible sighting.
Back in camp I relaxed at my tent for a bit. A Bearded Scrub-robin and a Green-backed Cameroptera came to visit as well as an Ashy Flycatcher. In the sky above a small flock of European Bee-eaters were flying about.
And as always the Tree Agamas provided entertainment.
I went on a short night walk but only found a couple of frogs and a butterfly.
Wednesday
I had a very specific goal in mind for the day, and I failed miserably. It made me wonder of Kruger was still a Big 5 Reserve. I saw hardly any signs, but I did speak to people who saw the Special Ones. But I would return from this 16 night trip without seeing a single Grey Rock. It was heartbreakingly depressing.
It did not mean, however that the day or the rest of the trip for that matter was not fabulous. My route took my past the Hyena Den.
There was very little action, but there was a mom suckling and cleaning her two young ones. They were not entirely impressed by her grooming methods.
The sunrise was spectacular.
As I drove south I saw a Red-crested Korhaan and baby Impalas.
A Yellow-billed Hornbill was sitting on a dead tree having a juicy breakfast.
There were all sorts of animals along the way, but they were mostly in the thickets and with the dawn light there were not many photo opportunities.
But it was once again a morning for Hyenas. I had already seen a few as I was driving, and just after Afsaal I found some more.
I know not everyone likes them, but next to Elephants, Hyenas are my absolute favourites. Just look at this face!
There were four of them and I switched off my car to watch for a bit.
One looked a little nervous and kept his distance from the others.
This morning was also time for a new road. I turned right onto the S120 – a road that I have never driven before. It was a quiet road, but very pretty. I headed towards Matjulu waterhole. Someone mentioned that there were lions near the waterhole, and I found them easily.
They were flat cats, so I went to look if anything was happening at the waterhole. Seven species in one frame!
When I arrived back at the lions, they had lifted their heads. The one lion had a beautiful dark mane.
The other one obviously thought holding his head up by himself was just too much effort and made use of the convenient branch. What a picture!
He was only about 5m from the car, and it was amazing to be so close to t a powerful male lion. But the lifting of heads seemed to be the only activity they were capable of, and as I still had to complete my ultimately doomed mission, I headed east via the S110.
It was a morning for reptiles as well. I saw an agama scurry across the road on the S110, and back on the tar road I found a Leopard Tortoise and a Black-lined Plated Lizard.
I saw my first Southern Ground Hornbills of the trip on the S114. While I stopped to look at these wonderful creatures, the driver of an OSV mentioned that there was a leopard on the S118. I wasn’t far away, and decided I may as well go and have a look. Big Mistake. Huge. The sighting was in the narrowest bend of the road, and there were about 12 OSV vehicles. And the leopard visibility was about -1/5. I turned around and left the chaos as quickly as possible.
I did not get out at the Gardenia Hide, but from the road I saw a pair of Hamerkop.
I was despondent as I headed north. No special animals.
I stopped at the Biyamiti Weir. The Pied Wagtail Adult was around, but the babies were obviously sleeping as she was relaxed and the nest was quiet.
I love the eye-level view that the weir provides, and the little Three-banded Plovers and Wood Sandpipers looked gorgeous.
Along the Biyamiti Loop I saw more baby Impalas and a lovely Brown Snake Eagle with piercing yellow eyes.
My next stop was Transport Dam. Elephants were drinking on the far side of the dam.
An Impala came to drink while a Waterbuck and a huge Crocodile were relaxing. How the Thick-knees were not scared of that huge monster I don’t know.
Birds around the dam included an African Fish Eagle, African Jacana and Knob-billed Duck.
As I drove back to Skukuza I saw a mom and youngster, and was delayed by a roadblock for a few minutes.
When I got to De LaPorte, I saw a flock of Red-billed Oxpeckers, They were hitch hiking on a family of Warthogs.
Back at camp the clouds looked very ominous. I postponed my sunset drive to the next day and hurried to ensure my camp was ready for the rain. Luckily the clouds looked worse than the rain it produced. It rained for almost an hour, but not too hard. I went for a short drive after the rain. There were a few birds out, and of course tortoises. There was a Leopard Tortoise as well as a Speke’s Hinged Tortoise
I did not find what I was looking for that day, but despite that sad fact, it was still a really good day.
Thursday
It was my last full day at Skukuza, and I was planning on taking it easy and start packing up camp in the afternoon.
I went for a walk in camp after I woke up. There were elephants crossing the Sabi River in the distance. Near the bridge I saw a small group of African Black Ducks, a bird I have only seen in Kruger once before.
The Purple Crested Turacos I saw during the trip were notoriously difficult to photograph so I was happy to get this pic.
This Southern Red Bishop looked really pretty.
A White-browed Scrub-robin was singing its little heart out. They have one of the most beautiful calls.
After my walk I went to Lake Panic. I spent about three hours there, enjoying the birds and the quiet. I had my coffee and breakfast, and enjoyed every last moment at this beautiful place.
A little Malachite Kingfisher looked gorgeous in the morning light.
The Striated Heron was strutting his stuff.
The Squacco Heron is normally a very sleek and well groomed bird.
But everyone can have a bad hair day!
Sightings were high and low with a Yellow-billed Kite in a tree and a Crocodile basking on the grass.
The Black Crake came close again. They really are incredibly beautiful with the contrast between the black and yellow and red.
I spotted two heads.
Then three. Then four!
A Hippo looked a little menacing as he watched me watching him.
For the most part I just put the camera down and enjoyed the moment. People came and went, but the hide was quiet most of the time I spent there.
A lady mentioned a lion sighting. I had already been in the hide for a few hours and I decided I may as well go and have a look.
On the way there were Zebras, Kudus, Giraffe, Buffalo, a Leopard Tortoises and baby Impalas.
I stopped at Nyamundwa Dam. There were Hippos, Crocodiles, Wooly-necked Storks, Egrets and Egyptian Geese.
A few kilometers further I found the lions. Apparently they had been mating, but while I was there they did little more than be flat cats and then move behind the bushes.
Back at camp I started organising my things for easy packing the next day when I move to the next camp. A bird called behind the trees next to my tent and I finally managed a sighting and photo of a Red-chested Cuckoo.
On the wall by the bathroom I saw an interesting moth in the form of a Learner Slug. I went on the sunset drive. Our route took us along the H1-2, back across the Sabi River to Nkulu where we turned around.
While driving on the H1-2 the guide pointed to a termite mound. Two Giant Plated Lizards were peeking out from holes in the mound. It was an incredibly cool sighting.
There were also Giraffes and Buffalos along the way.
Just before the Sabi River we saw White-headed Vultures on a tree in the distance, my first for the trip. We also had a brief sighting of a Hyena. A lone elephant crossed the road as we reached Nkulu. There was also a Lesser Bushbaby. Just before the T-junction near Skukuza we found a lion sleeping on the road. I did not think he looked in great condition at all as his hip bones were very pronounced. But the guide did not seem worried – he said the other members of the coalition were in the area and a good meal will see him right as rain. I hoped that the guide was correct in his assessment.
When we reached Skukuza I had a quick look if there was anything at the little pond outside reception and saw a little Painted Reed Frog.
It had been a very relaxed day, just what I needed.
Tomorrow I would be heading to Satara.
Thursday
I was up early and had everything packed up rather quickly. A small medical issue meant I had to wait for the shop to open before I left. It was just after 06h00 when I drove to the shop. I went for a walk around camp and along the fence. Just as I reached the traffic circle I saw the African Goshawk on a tree. I had seen it a few days earlier but this was the first opportunity to get a photo.
I took a relaxed, slow walk around the shop and the fence near the restaurant. I had a brief sighting of a Water Monitor. There were only a few birds around. Nyalas came for a drink on the other side of the river. It was a quiet and peaceful morning, until I heard a lady screaming – she was preparing breakfast, had obviously left food unattended on the patio of their chalet and the Monkeys took full advantage.
I was just about to head back to my car to leave my camera before going to the shop when I decided to walk to the far end of the path along the river. And this unplanned decision resulted in the most unexpected sighting of the trip.
I was scanning the river with my binoculars when I saw a bird swimming on the water.
What?
I jumped on the bench to get a better view. He was swimming fast and I only had moments to take a few photos before he reached the reeds on the near side and disappeared. But it was unmistakable – it was an African Finfoot! 
Never in my wildest dreams had I ever expected to see one of these birds in Kruger. They are sometimes seen, but not often. As I walked to my car I shook my head in disbelief.
Timing, Timing, Timing.
A last minute decision and arriving at that spot at the perfect moment resulted in this amazing sighting. 20 Seconds later and I would have missed it.
The shop was open, and soon I was in my car heading to Satara. My drive took me along the H4-1 to the H12. I saw the usual plethora of birds along the way. There were also Warthogs, Buffalos, Elephants, Impalas and Blue Wildebeest.
There was another “moment” just a few kilometers after the Kruger Tablets. A large, dark Antelope caught my attention.
Sable!
This was only the second time ever that I had seen these majestic antelope in Kruger. I was ecstatic.
I’ve always thought of my visits to Kruger as “therapy “sessions. Personal experience on previous trips have convinced me that the Park seems to know when I needed that extra special “hug”. The week before the trip was just awful, and in the first few days of the trip the Park had certainly given me many moments that made me feel better.
Hyenas. Elephants. Baby animals and baby birds. Lions. Leopards. Hyenas. Elephants. Finfoot. Sable.
The Park certainly knows how to give proper hugs! I drove on, reflecting, feeling incredibly blessed. I said thanks.
The Park was by no means done with its “therapy”.
Just before the turn off to Leeupan two big boys were sleeping.
I waited a little while, and my patience paid off. One lifted his head.
He then got up and walked to the shade where he unceremoniously plonked down and fell asleep.
I made a quick stop at Leeupan. A beautiful bateleur was soaring overhead.
There was also a herd of elephants. At first they seemed skittish about my presence but then settled down.
There was another elephant roadblock just before Tshokwane. This little crooked tail is so cute!
I made a quick stop at Tshokwane, and then it was time for the last stretch to my home for the next few nights. Sarara.