Storms River Mouth Rest Camp (Tsitsikamma Section)
I have some faded memories of walking on the suspension bridge over the Storms River Mouth during a school tour, but that was many, many years ago.
I was excited to discover this camp. After leaving Addo, I headed west on the N2. A short stop in Jeffrey’s Bay for fuel and a quick hallo to a family friend, and I was on my way again. I had a lovely sighting of a Booted Eagle in Jeffrey’s Bay when I saw it having breakfast next to the road.
When I arrived at the camp the weather had turned again. It was raining hard and it was very windy. I was too early to collect my key, so I drove down to the shop and restaurant area.
I stopped above the camping area to look at some terns on the rocks This is what the weather was like.
There were Cape Cormorants, Sandwich Terns and Swift Terns on the rocks. I also spotted a juvenile Cape Gannet flying past.
I headed to the temporary restaurant where I had lunch. Eventually it was time to collect my key, and I headed to my little hut. It was very cozy. Small but comfortable, and it was the only one with a sea view.
It was not possible to do anything outside, so I made tea and sat at the table looking at the view while going through some of the photos I’d taken so far on my trip.
A while later I noticed that the rain had stopped, and I was outside in a flash. The ocean was still restless from the stormy weather and the waves crashed against the rocks.
There were many Kelp Gulls. This one took his time to do some preening.
A little Three-banded Plover was running between the rocks. There was also a pair of Water Thick-knees.
A few Kelp Gulls relaxed by the pool.
As I watched the Terns, the rain started again and I had to run back to the hut.
When I woke up the next morning the skies were clear. I decided to run to the suspension bridge. There was a lovely little waterfall just behind the restaurant area.
The sunrise was really stunning.
I loved the views of the suspension bridge.
The water of the Storms River was an unusual black colour. The view towards the mountains reminded me of a scene from The Lord of the Rings.
I made a cup of coffee after my run and went to sit on the rocks.
The view was so different to the day before.
A Pair of Oyster Catchers were on the rocks in front of me. It looked as if they may have a nest, but after a little while both flew off, so I wasn’t sure.
I love these glossy black birds with their red beaks and eyes.
The Kelp Gulls would not be ignored.
I found a lifer butterfly in the shape of a Rainforest Dull Brown outside my hut.
It was a very short visit to this lovely camp, but I enjoyed every minute, despite the weather. I have a feeling this could become one of my favourite Sanparks Camps.
Before I headed to Ebb-and-Flow, I stopped at the Big Tree.
Wow.
You had to look up and up and up to see the whole tree. It was breathtaking.
I stood there feeling small. I thought of the stories this Giant of the forest could tell. I knelt down and touched its roots where they burrowed into the soil. The moss covering them was cool and soft. As I pressed my palm against the coarse bark, it was as if I could feel the Tree breathe.
I walked backed to my car feeling humbled to be in the presence of such a splendid creature.
I made a quick stop at Natures Valley. I saw an Osprey fly past. The Sanparks Camp at Natures Valley was fabulous. Huge leafy trees gave it a magical feel. I would love to stay there some time.
Ebb-and-Flow Rest Camp (Wilderness Section)
I thought about having lunch in Knysna, but ended up doing a spot of birding in stead. An African Fish Eagle and a Common Greenshank were some of the notable additions to my trip list.
When I arrived at Ebb-and-Flow rest camp it was extremely windy. I went for a short walk. I loved the river and the trail.
I decided to go for a drive to the various bird hides in the area.
Before going to the hides, I drove up the mountain. The view was quite splendid.
My first stop was the Groovlei Hide. The wind was ridiculous. There were a couple of Coots and Ducks. Barn Swallows braved the wind.
From there I drove to the Malachite Hide. You can see from the waves on the water just how windy it was. A pair of African Spoonbills and an African Darter was about all there was to see.
The Gallinule hide is the closest to the Camp, but it was also the most quiet with only a Red-knobbed Coot visible on the far side.
The wind made braaing impossible. Thankfully the hut had a little two-plate stove and I was able to pan fry my tjoppies.
As the dark crept down the valley, the wind subsided. And of course, as is my habit (or maybe addiction), I was out for a bug walk. Where birding in the wind was a disappointment, the night walk was not. I found a fabulous collection of creatures.
There were once again lots of Wall crab spiders.
They were however completely outnumbered by Rain Spiders. I think I found about 20 of these gorgeous creatures.
I also found a couple of sleeping butterflies. There was also the tiniest, cutest little Tropical House Gecko.
Another wonderful find was this Long Spinnered Bark Spider.
It was the season for Hairy Field Spiders, and there were a few of these guys at Ebb-and-Flow as well.
But once again the highlight came in the form of a Bark Spider. He was busy spinning a web between two aloes. I must have touched a strand of its web because it dropped like a stone onto the aloe. I took a couple of photos and then left it in peace to get back to its web-building.
I didn’t go for a run the next morning. In stead I had a cup of coffee on the steps of my hut and watched the sunlight creep down the mountain across the river. Southern Double-collared and Amethysts sunbirds were flitting about. I heard a Black-headed Oriole calling from somewhere. It was so peaceful and relaxing.
When I left, a little Brown-hooded Kingfisher came to say goodbye.
The Outeniqua Mountains may not be as high at the Drakensberg Mountains, but in terms of beauty they rank right up there with any mountain range.
The weather interfered quite a bit with my stay in the two camps in the Garden Route National Park, and I am a little sad about that. But I did experience the beauty of this part of the world, and it was pretty awesome.