After I finalized my routes for my year of travel, I had to decide where I had to spend my birthday.
We visited MZNP for the first time in December 2012. This exquisite Park wormed its way deep into my heart to stay there forever.
There was not a second’s hesitation when I had to decide – I wanted to spend it here. In this very spot.
When you drive from the Ubejane Loop up the mountain you will see this view. I’ve come to think of it as “My Spot”. There is something about this view that touches me deeply.
I arrived in MZNP a day earlier than planned. It was such a good idea on my part – the rest of my stay was much more relaxed with the extra time I had to my disposal.
After I finished setting up my tent, I spent time in camp. I was so happy to be in one of my favourite places. I would go for morning and afternoon drives, and then spend the hottest part of the day relaxing in camp. I made reservations for two of the Park’s fantastic activities, and both delivered in spades.
I chose the most perfect destination to celebrate my half century.
This cute Southern Ground Agama welcomed me shortly after entering the Park.
One of the MZNP resident species I always look forward to seeing are the Ground Squirrels. I found them in their usual spot on the Ubejane Loop.
I just love this little guy with his mouth full of grass.
I think Spike-heeled Larks have to be my favourite Larks. There were many of these adorable birds around.
I also saw Large-billed Larks, Red-capped Lark and Eastern Clapper Larks.
Mountain Zebra is ideal habitat for Cisticolas. I was able to positively identify Wailing and Zitting Cisticolas. The rest shall remain unidentified, even though they were very photogenic.
While driving to the camp, a small movement inside my car caught my eye. It seemed a little hitchhiker joined me somewhere along the road. I had a little container in which to keep him safe until I got to camp. I took a few photos before I released the little dude.
While I was pitching my tent, I noticed two little ones hanging around to give me a hand.
The first was another little Jumping Spider, a different species from the first one.
My other little helper was a Cape Wagtail. It had a busted leg, but seemed quite fine. It stayed in the camping area and often kept me company while I relaxed in camp.
I fed my addiction and went for bug walks – both at night as well as in the day.
This Brown Button Spider was absolutely stunning.
I found a few sleeping butterflies at night, including this Topaz Babul Blue.
There were also many Rayed Blues and Veined Russets.
Another small (or not so small) creature I found underneath a rock was this Solifuge. I held my car key above it to measure. It was about 6cm from mouth to tail. She was almost 3cm wide. I was completely freaked out, but at the same time also completely fascinated by this massive arachnid.
I carefully replaced the rock after I took the photos and walked away really grateful that this not so little monster was really far away from my tent!
Another small creature (also a lifer), was this Drab Thicktail Scorpion. I found three of varying sizes during my walks.
This Equine Maiden hung out in the ladies bathrooms. A very interesting looking moth.
During one of my walks a little Namaqua Sand Lizard dashed into the bushes.
While I was relaxing in camp one afternoon, a large caterpillar fell out of the tree above me and landed next to my chair with a loud thud. I picked it up, but saw immediately that it was not in great shape. I quickly discovered why. As I put it down, a wasp landed next to it. It grabbed the helpless caterpillar and proceeded to sting it multiple times – either to paralyze it more or to lay eggs.
Then it dragged the caterpillar off to a burrow it had dug. It covered a distance of about 15m in less than 2 minutes. I could not believe how quickly it moved with its large prey.
It was definitely one of the best sightings of the trip.
I found something really special on my first night while on my bug walk. As the sun set, I could hear the Fiery-necked Nightjars starting to call. While walking, I found this cute pair in the road. I did not spotlight them directly, and that allowed me to get quite close until an approaching car spooked them. But it was one of the many wonderful moments of this trip.
I didn’t just find small creatures on my walks – while driving a spotted a few Orb web spiders as well.
The activity I wanted to do on my birthday was the Cheetah Tracking. When I went to make the booking, no-one had booked for the day of my birthday yet, but someone did for the morning after I arrived. So I booked for that day as I did not want to risk leaving it for the last morning and then not being able to go because no-one else had booked. There was only one other person that joined the outing, and I preferred that to a large group.
We had to drive for a bit before we picked up the signal. We did not have to do much walking as Mike was very close to one of the 4×4 tracks. He was not in the best position for photos, but it was obvious that he was a very handsome fella.
We spent 10 minutes with him. It is the third time I’ve gone on the tracking experience, and it still leaves be breathless. We were able to come within about 15m from this beautiful animal. To be so close to a wild cheetah is incredibly special. I would recommend it to anyone that visits MZNP – it is truly worth it.
The Cheetah tracking outing did not just deliver this fabulous cheetah experience. On the way we flushed quite a few Common Quails – a bird I had only ever seen once before. On Link Road we noticed a raptor. The guide and I realized what it was at the same time – a Black Harrier! Only my third ever sighting of this scarce bird. I could only get a bum shot, but I was truly delighted.
The rest of that morning included some more birds. First up was a local favourite – the Scaly-feathered Weaver.
As I drove along the Kranskop Loop, I spotted something high up,
This Pale-Chanting Goshawk wasn’t the only one I saw during my visit. There were many of these striking raptors around.
Halfway up Kranskop Loop the call of a Southern Tchagra caught my attention.
The top of Kranskop loop is where you start to truly appreciate this Park. The views are breathtaking.
Then you drive down on the other side, and what little breath you had left leaves your body.
When you add a couple of animals to the scenery, it becomes even better.
I lamented to the guide earlier that it had been a while since I last saw the large herds of Gemsbok I saw on my first visit. He said they are still around. And I found some! Gemsbok have to rate as one of my favourite antelope species. They are so regal and gorgeous with their beautiful faces and those stunning horns.
As I drove back to camp I noticed weather brewing in the distance.
That cloud didn’t reach the Park right then, but later that afternoon the heavens opened.
I left the camp minutes before the rain arrived. I drove to the end of the tarred section. I drove at a snail’s pace. My car’s wipers were completely useless. It was wonderful.
The deluge lasted about 30 minutes. I sat in my car and listened to the sound of the rain pounding on my car and the road and the vegetation. I loved it.
When the storm passed, a number of creatures came out. A few damp looking monkeys.
The birds looked for perches where they could dry off their feathers.
And after every storm, there is always a Promise.
The storm that afternoon was not the only one. I went for an afternoon drive the next day. When I reached Link Road, I saw one of the biggest rain clouds I’d ever seen.
My heartrate quickened significantly, but fortunately the cloud moved westwards. Despite the scary nature of the cloud, the views were spectacular.
As the frightening cloud moved west, it made room for another storm that was heading straight towards camp.
I decided that it was probably best if I headed back to camp, and quickly. But despite my rush to get back to camp, I had to stop frequently. The weather created the most tremendous scenery in a Park that was spectacular even on a clear day.
I got back to camp and as I zipped up my tent, the rain started.
I peeked out. It was bucketing and hailing.
But my tent endured it, and 30 minutes later the skies were clear and I had a braai. The moon rose in a haze of pink. After the braai I sat in the dark for a long time and listened to the frogs and crickets, distant thunder and Nightjars. I reflected on my first 49 years on this planet. I was happy and grateful, again.
The birds in MZNP delighted and entertained. I finally managed a photo of a Pale-winged Starling.
A lone Blue Crane was foraging on the Link Road.
I watched this Secretary Bird hunting. He caught a mouse and swallowed it so quickly, I wondered if it was wriggling in his tummy.
All the rain created lots of puddles and that provided ample building material for the swallows.
The African Hoopoo that lived in camp was difficult to photograph until he finally posed in a tree.
There were lots of babies in the Park.
Mountain Zebras are some of the most beautiful animals and very photogenic. And the incredible Park scenery just adds to their beauty.
I had two little surprise sightings. I spotted Meerkats near the Ground Squirrel valley as well as on Link Road. A first for me in the Park.
And suddenly it was the last full day of my trip and my birthday.
When I went for my birthday run, it was a little misty.
Nothing that I did that day was a rush. After my run I had a relaxing cup of coffee and only went for my morning drive at about 08h00.
Just before I headed up the mountain to “My Spot”, I saw a family of Mongoose. The little ones were very cute.
And then I reached “My Spot”. I parked my car on the side of the road and enjoyed my view,
I opened my car door and put my feet on the ground. The Park was clean and beautiful after the rain, and it made for the perfect moment to celebrate 50.
I sipped my coffee slowly. I sat there for almost an hour before I slowly drove on. I drove to the windmill and then turned around. There were puddles everywhere, and all the streams were flowing. I loved it.
One of the other landmarks in the Park I always look forward to seeing are these gorgeous Shepherds Trees.
I had a delicious lunch at the restaurant and then went for a last afternoon drive. The sightings were great.
I watched the swifts at the dam and was delighted to spot a few Alpine Swifts.
I spent a few last moments at “My Spot”.
A Common Buzzard posed for a few seconds before flying off.
The scene at the windmill looked a little different without the dark clouds.
I savored every sighting that afternoon.
How can you not love this scene!
I had a quick supper and enjoyed a glass of wine as the sun set on this great day.
I had booked the night drive to end off my birthday. Richard was our guide for the night – I remembered him from the cheetah tracking I did in 2019 and it was lovely to see him again.
We drove along one of the 4×4 routes and soon spotted two Spotted Eagle Owls. Later we would see two Barn Owls as well. There were also a number of Fiery-necked Nightjars. Richard’s eagle eyes saw some interesting shapes in a tree – two roosting Pale Chanting Goshawks. A grey shape moved through the bushes – a Black Rhino! We saw many Spring hares, Scrub Hares and a Cape Hare.
The second best sighting of the night was this Bronze-winged Courser on the Ubejane Loop. It was completely out of range, and a total surprise!
And then the best birthday present I could have asked for. It was towards the end of the drive that Richard saw the shape moving in the grass. Seeing a Brown Hyena had been on my bucket list for a long time, and I never thought I would see one here.
The video isn’t the best quality, but the sighting was. We had so many fantastic sightings on the night drive, and to end it off on such an unbelievably high note was truly special.
I fell asleep with a huge smile on my face. My birthday was everything I had hoped for, and more.
The next morning I packed up and drove towards the gate. The Park was quiet. I saw a few more birds, ostriches and Zebras.
I was a very happy person as I left. I was obviously sad to leave such a wonderful place, but it had been such a wonderful visit to this Park and I was truly grateful for everything I had seen and experienced.